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What defines Indonesian cuisine? Well, mostly Nasi Goreng and Satay, the only two Indonesian dishes widely known and eaten across the globe. But then they are not at the heart of it. The actual magic lies in the condiments like sambal matah, the fresh aromatic native herbs and spices, and a whole array of local dishes that are unfortunately not as popular as they should be. Add to that the phenomenal seafood from Jimbaran, which rarely gets a mention unless you visit the country. However, during my recent visit, as I cruised the nooks and corners of the gorgeous place, I got to explore and expose my palate to the real food of Bali.
1. Nasi Campur
The highlight of my Indonesian food diary is Nasi Campur, a wholesome lunch that is a beautiful assortment of rice, shredded chicken, sweetcorn cutlet, beans, sprouts, begedil (potato patties), urap (Indonesian vegetable salad) and sambal matah (a spicy onion and chilli condiment) that will leave a long lingering burn on the palate, but you won’t mind. It’s messy, it’s spicy and it’s good.
Where to eat: Warung Makan Teges, Ubud
2. Rendang Sapi
This dish may have expanded to other Southeast Asian countries like Malaysia and Singapore, but its origin remains intact in the West Sumatra region of Indonesia. It’s a slow-cooked beef stew in coconut milk with a healthy portion of fresh aromatic spices and herbs served with sauteed long beans and white or yellow rice. The burst of flavours infused by the galangal, garlic, lemongrass, coriander, pepper, chilli, and kaffir lime leaves add a distinct contrast to the dish.
Where to eat: Mathis Retreat, Ubud
3. Soup Kepala Ikan Laut (fish head soup)
A pit-stop at WarungMakBeng in Sanur to devour their iconic nasi standard porsi package which basically includes nasi (steamed rice), ikan laut goreng (fried fish) and soup kepala ikan laut (fish head soup) is mandatory. You can’t miss it! It’s served with their signature fiery sambal and kaffir lime on the side for that extra punch of flavours. Despite the fish head in the soup, it’s fragrant and not stinky. A few cucumber slices are thrown in to act as a natural coolant—also, special mention to the minimally seasoned local sea fish that is cooked to perfection.
Where to eat: Warung Mak Beng, Sanur
4. Grilled Gurami
This freshwater fish is one of the most widely consumed fish in Indonesia and it’s actually quite delicious. The grilled gurami ikan bakar in kecapmanis (sweet soy sauce), palm sugar, honey and oyster sauce, is quite tantalising. Served with hot steamed rice and spicy sambal sauce, it tastes divine.
Where to eat: Any restaurant in Bunga Mekar, Nusa Penida
5. Pepes Ikan
This Balinese-style marinated fish is wrapped in banana leaves, then steamed and then grilled to give it an earthy and smokey flavour. The generous amount of ginger, garlic, shallots, candlenuts, coriander, lemongrass, kaffir lime, basil leaves, lime and turmeric infuse a gamut of flavour into the fish and add a beautiful aroma to the dish. It is served with vegetable wrap and steamed rice.
Where to eat: Mathis Retreat, Ubud
6. Soto Ayam
This Indonesian version of broth noodles is a warm and comforting clear spicy chicken soup made with boiled egg, bean, glass noodle, sprout and cabbage and is just what you need on a chilly winter night, or when you are weary and fatigued. Turmeric is the star ingredient that adds colour to the soup, and it’s the use of fresh herbs that makes it a fabulous creation.
Where to eat: Any restaurant in Bunga Mekar, Nusa Penida
7. Betutu Ayam
This Balinese style braised chicken marinated with turmeric, ginger, galangal, shallots, garlic, turmeric, candle nuts, chilli peppers, and peanuts is either steamed or roasted and is considered to be one of the simplest traditional dishes of Indonesia. It’s served with white rice, vegetable, sate lilit, sambal matah and chilli sauce, and is definitely a must-try.
Where to eat: Kuta
Photo: Shutterstock