“From pine-scented forests, past boulders and streams, to clear lakes encircled by murals and dreams; Where bright clouds emblazon a warm azure sky, a trail through the mountains is one I must try..” Opening lines of John Muir’s poem ring in my mind as I head to the hills after almost a decade. I have always loved hills but the drive on the winding hill roads has never agreed with me. This time though, my destination promises to be closer to the plains with a shorter drive. Hoping I will survive it, I take the chance.
The drive turns out to be surprisingly comfortable and I reach Bhowali, a small town just ahead of Bhimtal in Uttarakhand’s Nainital district, in just about an hour. I have always known Bhowali for its fruits like peaches, plums, apples, and apricots but now I also learn that it is a perfect base to explore popular destinations like Nainital, Bhimtal, Bageshwar and Ranikhet owing to its strategic location. My destination, however, is a homestay called Divyam on a quiet hill just 30 minutes off the main town.
A home, not a hotel
Set amidst residential villas in Shayamkhet area, the place is a reminder of the quaint mountain homes of yore — complete with gabled roofs, stone walls, wooden decks and an expansive garden. Run by two former hoteliers, Mansukh and Aditi Lamba, the villa is far from old. It is a modern space with all the facilities one might imagine — from central heating to electric fireplaces, to huge rooms overlooking the valley, and many common spaces spread over three floors. The best part is that it is a home, not a hotel, and you have the whole place to yourself.
Divyam, inform the owners, was conceived for guests who prefer homes rather than hotels on their holiday. They have already hosted dozens of families including Virat Kohli and Anushka Sharma’s who chose it over the luxe resorts in the area.
Post a welcome drink of Buransh Sharbat made with locally grown rhododendron flowers, we sit for a traditional lunch on the deck overlooking a pristine pine forest. The meal, a Kumaoni thali made by the resident chef, consists of local staples: gutkha aloo, gahat ki daal, kaafli ka saag, pahadi meat, mandua roti, jhangoore ki kheer and Kumaoni raita.
Visiting a tea estate, cheese factory and apple orchard
While Bhowali is tucked away from the touristy humdrum, it is also close to many interesting places. Mukteshwar, known for the views of snow covered peaks like Nanda Devi and Panchachuli, makes for a great day trip. Ghorakhal, a tiny town with one of the few tea estates of Uttarakhand, is another unchartered place. Kainchi Dham, a temple and ashram dedicated to Neem Karoli baba, is popular with locals as well as celebrities.
I decide to skip the touristy temples and walk to Ghorakhal Tea Estate for tea tasting and later drive to Mukteshwar for lunch with the view of snowy peaks.
An invigorating walk to Ghorakhal in the crisp mountain air refreshes me and my tired city senses the next morning. The golden rays of the rising sun illuminate the tea garden as a middle-aged gentleman shows me around the estate and processing unit that employs only locals.
Next, he takes me for tea tasting in a simple set up of wooden tables and plastic chairs and serves their premium tea in beautiful glass cups. The bright sun, chilly breeze and the delicate tea overlooking the estate is an experience I did not know existed in the region. Wondering what else I do not know, I set out for another adventure — a drive to Mukteshwar.
The sun has set by the time I return post a visit to a cheese factory, an apple orchard, a meal at a cafe overlooking snowy peaks, and a view of the Himalayas I had never had in my life.
A hearty bonfire welcomes me to Divyam’s chilly yet inviting garden where the stage has been set for live music and the barbecue has been fired up for dinner. I step out despite the warm indoors looking forward to an evening of music, food, stargazing and banter. As I stand by the bonfire, sipping my mulled wine and watching the stars, I realise how much I have missed the hills in the past decade. And I am grateful that now I have a place to come back to over and over again.
Bhowali is located 29 kilometres from the nearest railhead, Kathgodam. It is easily accessible by road from all major North Indian cities. The closest airport is Pantnagar located 64 kilometres away.