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As Paris Couture Week returned in full swing, the Fall/Winter 2022 Haute Couture shows gave fashionistas and fashion loversthe most extravagant trends for the season, with the best fashion houses putting on spectacular shows with even more spectacular clothes. Romantic minimalism reigned high on the runway with the best of couturiers exhibiting their intricate love of craftsmanship or with the use of technology to create otherworldly garments. It is fascinating that couture can be futuristic and pay homage to the past at the same time.
Zee Zest looks back on the week to spot some runway favourites. Kicking off with Schiaparelli and closing with Valentino, here’s a roundup of the key trends of Fall’s Haute Couture - the highest level of garment craftmanship achievable:
1. Strong shoulders
For their Fall’22 collection, designers Viktor & Rolf weaved high collars with extra broad, structured shoulders that showed a little skin, perfect for a dramatic return-to-office outfit that really stands out. Alexandre Vaultier also showcased a collection with sharp tailoring within power suits, featuring blazers with supersized shoulders.
2. Layered flowing magic
Chanel’s Artistic Director Virginie Viard gently brought out the flow of ensembles dexterously manipulated by chiffon layers. Rich embroidery acted as the star of Dior’s couture show, with intricately designed floral motifs as the free-flowing silhouettes brought a romantic and dreamy flair.
3. Emergence of corsets
If there's one trend that has emerged veryclearly from these runways, it's that this is the year for bringing lots of corsets back into the wardrobe. Corsets were all-over in the couture runways in bright colours, metallic finishes worn as a top with miniskirts or as part of a matching co-ord set. Designer Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli brought classic corsets with astounding levels of artistry.
4. Electrifying blues & pinks
Celebs left and right are vouching for both blue and pink-hued trends. For Armani Privé Haute Couture Fall 22, it was all about sparkle and an escape with sequin jackets with rounded shoulder pads, strapless velvet column dresses and glitzy dresses and gowns in cobalt blues and hot pinks. From ball gowns to capes and miniskirts, Piccioli’s Valentino created an arresting colour wheel of his signature pink colour with a dramatic effect on the silhouettes.
5. Shape-forming silhouettes
At designer Iris van Herpen’s show, the organza silhouettes that flowed organically came with a form-fitting shape, mimicking a beautiful effect while at Rahul Mishra, exaggerated gilded caged forms enclosed the models. In an odd opening and closing, Balenciaga introduced neoprene-clad models with veiled faces. The guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier, Olivier Rousteing, referenced Tanzanian pregnant body sculptures moulded out of leather.
6. Gilded glamour
The couture runways were filled with designs dripping in an excess of glittering gold. At Rahul Mishra, the designs were predominantly in black and gold, outfits embroidered with astute detailing and floral appliques while at Schiaparelli, creative director Daniel Roseberry’s signature golden adornments framed the ensembles.
7. Metallic glaze
No matter how the ensembles are but metallic designs give an extra edge to the designs. At Balenciaga, designer DemnaGvasalia kept it brief but impactful with Nicole Kidman strutting the runway in metallic silver cloth. An elegant, long dress was cut from molten silver at Valentino, with teal accents in trains and feather headdresses.
8. White obsession
Couture house also couldn’t stop bringing designs with their own connotations of lightness and purity with so many of them opting for white this season. At Chanel, the white ensembles were topped with sequins stitched into a tweed pattern and held between layers of organza. At Giambattista Valli, the collection was opened with crisp-white looks, while the same was at the house of Dior.
Photo: Instagram/rahulmishra_7, schiaparelli