Picture your kaju katli with a layer of chocolate ganache, or a barfi with a buttery Biscoff paste. Delicious, right? The narrative surrounding Indian mithai has undergone a fascinating transformation. Traditionally revered but often predictable, mithai is shedding its old skin, thanks to a wave of modern sweet shops determined to shake things up. As Diwali draws near, a festival synonymous with sweets, Girish Nayak, Chief Mithaiwala of Bombay Sweet Shop takes us through the evolving landscape of mithai and how they are taking a subtler sweetness route, adding different textures to elevate the whole experience. Nayak says, “Modern mithai shops are making mithai more exciting and breaking those old stereotypes. They’ve gone beyond the use of traditional ingredients like milk, ghee, sugar, flours and nuts to incorporate ingredients that are found in Western desserts – think chocolate ganache, jams or even mascarpone cheese to cater to diverse palates of the newer generation.”
A feast for the eyes
However, it's not just the flavours that are evolving. The visual presentation of mithai has seen a revolution of its own. Gone are the days of simple, unadorned sweets, “The focus is on visually appealing packaging. It’s not just about taste anymore; people are drawn to sweets that look beautiful and feel special. This is especially true during Diwali, when mithai is often gifted, and the packaging and presentation add to the experience of giving and receiving. A visually appealing mithai box can create a sense of excitement and elevate the entire gifting experience, making it feel more thoughtful and personal. Moreover, in response to increasing health consciousness, mithai shops have begun offering healthier versions of these sweet treats too, with reduced sugar content, as well as sugar-free options,” Nayak adds. That said, despite the makeover, traditional Diwali sweets aren’t losing popularity; in fact, they remain a big part of the celebrations. He explains, “What’s changing is that people, especially those who have a contemporary taste, are now seeking unique or modern options. Health-conscious guests are also looking for alternatives. But that doesn’t mean classic mithai has lost its charm. In fact, during Diwali, we see a strong demand for traditional favourites like kaju katli, nut-based sweets, barfis and laddoos.”
Nayak's personal connection to mithai
For Nayak, the roots of this culinary passion runs deep. Growing up in Mnaipal, Karnataka, he reminisces about making Puran poli and Chana Dal Payasam with his mother. He recalls, “I mostly remember helping my mom with portioning out the dough for Puran Poli or making Chana Dal Payasam. I’d also help with Murukku and Shakkar Para, the Indian snacks usually made during Diwali. There’s also something we do called Kotte Kadubu – super soft, aromatic idlis steamed in jackfruit leaves. I have the fondest memories of tying up the leaves into little cup shapes so we could pour in the idli batter and steam it.” If he could choose one sweet to represent his childhood, it would be Chana Dal Payasam with fresh cashew nuts, “It’s a classic South Indian recipe made with chana dal, sabudana, jaggery, and coconut milk. I would pair it with a side of Kotte Kadubu - idlis steamed in jackfruit leaves. Together, they perfectly sum up my childhood memories.”
Milk as a mithai foundation
As we delve deeper into culinary philosophy, it becomes evident that Nayak has a particular affection for one ingredient above all: milk. He shares, “My favourite ingredient to play with would definitely be milk. It’s the most basic, essential foundation for any Indian mithai. You can transform it in so many ways – split it to make different forms like rasgulla, cham cham, gulab jamun, and more." And indeed, milk is a canvas of infinite possibilities in his hands. He continues, "If you slow cook it, it transforms into a caramelised peda with a rich texture. On the other hand, if you reduce it quickly, you get a malai peda texture. If you cook it further, it transforms into a fudge-like consistency, much like a dodha barfi. It’s incredibly versatile and forms the base of so many traditional sweets.”
Nayak's Diwali collection is a twist on the classics
Nayak's Diwali collection is inspired by the classics with a little twist to familiar favourites, with treats such as Anjeer Kaju Roll, Kaju Orange Roll, Kesar Mohanthal, and Nutty Date Barfi. These sweets stay true to their roots but come with a surprise, blending tradition and innovation. However, when you ask him if there any new sweet he's created specifically for Diwali that he's particularly proud of, he shares, “I’m particularly proud of the Biscuit Biscoff Barfi we’ve created for Diwali. It starts with litres of milk boiled down slowly over eight hours on low heat every single day, resulting in a rich, creamy base. We then add buttery Biscoff paste for a unique flavour. The barfi is a fusion of biscuit peda and Biscoff spread, flavoured with a hint of nutmeg and cinnamon, giving it a delicious twist. What makes this mithai even more special is its shape; it resembles a flower, making it visually stunning – just like we want all our sweets to be."