I’ll never forget the moment I found out Joshi House in Bandra was shutting down. It felt like someone had dimmed the lights on a spot that witnessed some of my most cherished memories—date nights, spontaneous lunches, quiet solo meals, and even those celebratory gatherings that somehow, always ended in laughter. Joshi House was my go-to for consistently delicious Indian fare (with a touch of European once upon a time), but more than that, it was where I felt at ease. So, when the doors finally closed, I felt a pang of loss that lingered for months (yes, you know exactly when ‘that’ place goes away).
Fast-forward to this week, and I’m standing at the threshold of the new Joshi House in Worli’s Koliwada village—about to become its very first official diner. It’s surreal: the same name, the same warmth, but with an entirely renewed identity. Gone are the pizzas and pastas; gone is the half-measure nod to continental dishes.
Now, Chef Richard D’souza (fondly called Chef Richie) has gone all-in with Indian cuisine, embracing the coastal spirit of Worli while still honoring the roots that made Joshi House such a trusted name.
Walking through the entrance, I felt a calm familiarity wash over me.
The ground floor is open and breezy, bathed in sandy hues, with Jaisalmer stone jali screens and terracotta pots painted with tigers—a wink to restaurateur Suren Joshi’s Rajasthani heritage. Designed by Lila Sarin, the place manages to feel fresh and coastal yet carries a sense of timelessness.
Head upstairs to the first floor, and you’re greeted by warm yellow cement floors, sculptural wooden pieces, and just these small cute add-ons by Suren. At the very top is a bar space that feels like a late-night cocoon, perfect for those after-dinner drinks and long conversations under moody lighting and vaulted ceilings.
But Joshi House has always been about the food first (and that’s strangely refreshing for today’s numerous launches). My culinary journey kicked off with a Moringa Shorba, which is Chef Richie’s twist on the typical paya or nihari.
The earthy notes of drumstick pulp added depth, and dunking a Goan Sanna into it felt comfortingly familiar yet refreshingly new. Next up was the Balinese Bhel—a crunchy, tropical medley of avocado, mango, tender coconut, and lemongrass that brought a bright zing to my palate.
In between my tasting, I was served a plate of fryums (those hollow, crispy rings I used to wear on my fingers as a kid) landed on the table.
In an instant, I was back in my childhood home, stuffing my face with them on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Here, they’re served with a kalonji and mango spice chutney, bringing just the right punch of tanginess that kept me reaching for more.
I also tried the cassava tuk chaat, where fried cassava meets yellow pea curry and sweet-sour chutneys—a flavor explosion that proves Chef Richie hasn’t lost his knack for playful creations. The Grilled Kokum Prawns were next, massive tiger prawns marinated in garlic chutney, curry leaves, and red chili, underscoring Worli’s coastal influence. I couldn’t resist revisiting some of my longtime favorites from the old Joshi House: the Palak Saag with burrata (still as silky and vibrant as ever) and the Laal Maas, whose tender mutton fell apart on my fork.
A standout surprise was the Brie with Marathi Thecha—something I usually associate with serious heat. But Chef Richie promised he’d keep the spice tame. He did, and it was a revelation: the thecha brought a nuanced, smoky kick that accentuated the Brie’s creaminess without setting my mouth on fire.
Suren mentioned he wanted a place “where the dining experience felt complete from first drink to last bite,” and you can sense that intention everywhere—from the careful plating of each dish to the signature coziness of the top-floor bar.
As I finished my last spoonful of Laal Maas, I couldn’t help but recall the final meal I had in Bandra—closing the door on an era. Now, here I was in Worli, opening a new chapter for Joshi House, one that leans fully into the flavors, spices, and warmth of India. It’s not often you get to be both the last guest at a beloved spot and the first at its reincarnation. But that’s exactly what happened, and I feel lucky to have witnessed Joshi House’s evolution from a charming Bandra staple to a contemporary-yet-cozy Indian restaurant that’s not afraid to play with tradition.
No meal at Joshi House would be complete without a nod to Chef Richie’s remarkable dessert offerings.
The Kerala Choklet Ganache—made with 75% dark organic chocolate from Kerala—is a wonderfully dense, rich delight that breaks away from the usual dessert mold. It pairs perfectly with cherry cream and torched meringue, with a touch of crunch from cacao nibs.
Image alt: Paan in an ice-cream lolly form was truly something different Image credit: Fabian/ZZ
The next of the sweet offerings was my soft spot – a Paan Magnum, a Banarasi paan inside enveloped in white chocolate, pistachio, and mukhwas. As a paan enthusiast, I found it to be a playful, inventive treat that brought my meal to a sweet and satisfying close. In its new chapter, Joshi House process that its desserts and endings, can be as strong as the earlier offerings (not something many restaurants can laud over).
If there’s one takeaway from my experience, it’s this: Joshi House is still Joshi House. The address may have changed, and the menu may now be fully Indian, but the heart remains the same. It’s still a place where food is done right—where flavors aren’t buried under some ‘sustainable story, or pomp and flair, but rather elevated and celebrated in every dish. And for me, that’s exactly why it has always felt like home.
Address: Joshi House, next to Desai Oceanic, VB Worlikar Marg, Worli Village, MIG Colony, Adarsh Nagar, Mumbai, Maharashtra – 400030
PS: A few of your dishes were voluntarily portion-sized as per our request. The final serving size may be different at the restaurant.