While Mumbai and other major Indian cities have seen a significant rise in Japanese and Korean restaurants of late, none have been able to outpace the demand for Chinese food, and rightly so. Chinese food, better expressed as ‘Chindian’ has long been the second most preferred cuisine after Indian food in India, and remains a go-to choice for dining out for many. But in a city like Mumbai, where culinary trends swirl like the monsoon winds, navigating the delicate balance between tradition and modernity presents a unique set of challenges, especially for chefs of Chinese descent, who have made Mumbai their home.
There’s a quiet struggle to preserve the delicate nuances of authentic Chinese cuisine. To appease the insatiable appetite for novelty, while simultaneously safeguarding the centuries-old traditions of their culinary heritage, is a tightrope walk that demands both artistry and resilience.
This Chinese New Year, we spoke to chefs of Chinese descent about the challenge of navigating and preserving tradition amid modernity.
Maintaining authenticity in a city of diverse palates
When asked about the challenges Chinese chefs face while trying to maintain authenticity in a city like Mumbai where new trends and international cuisines constantly compete for attention, they all point to the difficulty of sourcing authentic ingredients as a constraint issue. “Some traditional Chinese ingredients may be hard to find or of lower quality, so we find a substitute for them. Another challenge is the influence of local tastes,” sighs Zhang Ya Jun, Chinese Sous Chef, China House, Grand Hyatt Mumbai Hotel & Residences. He explains, “We as chefs try to balance the need to appeal to Indian palates with maintaining the essence of Chinese cuisine. This is majorly to adjust the spice level but still try to preserve the unique flavours and cooking methods.” Raymond Wong, Head Chef at Hakkasan Mumbai, echoes this sentiment, “Chinese cooking cannot be strictly followed in India due to cultural differences, with local tastes leaning towards lighter, spicier, and more flavourful dishes.” Emphasizing the importance of freshness, Keenan Tham, Co-Founder and Managing Director, Pebble Street Hospitality, says, “Freshness and availability of ingredients are key. The real, good stuff from China needs to be available in India to provide a more elevated experience for the guests.”
Balancing subtlety and spice for Indian palates
Authentic Chinese cuisine is often more subtle in its flavours compared to the bold, punchy tastes of Indo-Chinese food. Many chefs find it challenging to cater to Indian diners who are more accustomed to stronger, spicier flavours. At Yi Jing, ITC Maratha, Chef Liang Xiaoqing ensures there’s something for everyone, “We offer spicier options for those who prefer heat but make it a point to highlight the true essence and subtlety of traditional Chinese dishes.”
Chef Raymond, a purist at heart, believes in letting the flavours speak for themselves. “I prefer not to focus too much on elaborate plating,” he asserts. “The main reason is that Chinese cuisine is centred around the natural flavours and aromas of the ingredients. Spending two to three minutes just plating a dish doesn't align with the spirit of Chinese cooking, where the focus is more on the taste and the harmony of flavours.” Chef Zhang believes in educating guests about the cuisine’s subtleties. He adds, “Educating our guests about the unique flavours and cooking methods of authentic Chinese cuisine through tasting events or menu descriptions can also help increase acceptance.” Keenan notes that as diners' tastes evolve, so too does the approach to Chinese food, “As the ever-evolving customer travels and experiences more, we’re more open to offering items that meet their needs, though we’re not changing the essence of Chinese food.”
Redefining Chinese dishes with modern techniques and presentation
Despite these challenges, chefs are redefining traditional Chinese dishes through new techniques, presentation styles, and ingredient substitutions, all while staying true to their culinary heritage. Chef Zhang shares, "We use modern cooking techniques like sous-vide to enhance the texture of certain dishes. In terms of presentation, we adopt Western plating styles to make the dishes more visually appealing. Ingredient substitutions could also be made, for example, using local produce that is similar in texture or flavor to traditional Chinese ingredients."
Chef Liang who also sees a shift in presentation says, “While we majorly stick to traditional cooking methods like wok-frying and steaming, we’ve introduced contemporary plating techniques into the mix to elevate the dining experience. For example, we might use locally sourced garnishes like microgreens or edible flowers to add a contemporary touch, but the core of the recipe always remains true to its origins.” Chef Raymond believes in embracing local ingredients while respecting the essence of Chinese cuisine, “By incorporating local ingredients and presenting dishes in modern styles, we create a fusion that respects the essence of Chinese cuisine while embracing contemporary dining trends.” He also believes that integrating spices and herbs from Malaysian and Indian kitchens allows them to adapt the dishes to local preferences. Keenan Tham adds, “Ingredient substitutions like mock duck are becoming popular for vegetarians who want to eat a meat alternative to protein. Additionally, modern plating techniques, using premium colourful crockery instead of traditional ones, are being embraced.”
Adapting to the younger generation's expectations
And then there's the ever-evolving palate of the younger generation. “When it comes to Chinese cuisine,” observes chef Zhang, “the younger generation prefers healthier options, so for that we curate more steamed dishes and focus less on fried delicacies.” For example, instead of traditional deep-fried spring rolls, they serve baked spring rolls. “Younger diners also give a lot of importance to food presentation and prefer the dish to be Insta-worthy. So, chefs could plate dishes more artistically, like arranging dim sum in a distinctive pattern,” he adds.
Chef Raymond stresses on how younger diners are seeking out novelty, health-conscious choices, and visually appealing dishes. "As a result, the approach to Chinese cuisine has become innovative and experimental, incorporating fusion-based dishes. Younger diners prefer plant-based, gluten-free options and seek more personalized and creative dining experiences." To cater to these expectations, Raymond has introduced an immersive dining experience that blends tradition with innovation. Chef Liang shares there’s a noticeable increase in the demand for lighter, healthier takes on traditional dishes, “At Yi Jing, we have wholeheartedly embraced this shift by offering gluten-free dim sums and steamed options for those mindful of health trends.” Keenan succinctly points out the movement towards plant-based dining. “Younger generation diners are looking for authentic experiences, but there's also a movement towards veganism and vegetarianism. Chinese chefs have to adapt by creating dishes that suit the modern palate in an authentic way,” he concludes.