The walk to Nanna's Negroni in Pune reminded me of Salerno - of that unexpected uphill climb where tucked at the very end of a quiet slope, I stumbled upon what turned out to be the best meal I had in Italy. There's something oddly reassuring about these hidden-away places, as if the effort to reach them is part of the ritual.
I'm seated across from a wall that's impossible to ignore. A zebra, as calm as a monk, is holding a cobra pose - as in, the yoga asana. It's the kind of detail that makes you pause and smile. Chef Amber Rode recalls, “The zebra artwork which often intrigues guests is a print I found in a small market in Ely, UK. I had been holding onto it waiting for the right space, and Nanna's turned out to be the perfect home for it.”
The second thing that grabs me is the menu. It doesn't ease you in, it announces itself. A bold, hand-painted hand hoisting a Negroni like a torch. It's dramatic and it's perfect.
There's a 200 sq ft postcard wall that serves as visual diary of places, people, and memories, and pretty much transported me back to the sun-drenched piazzas.
The cocktails:
Considering the weather, I kicked things off with Start of Summer, a cocktail that's basically summer in a glass. Think tequila doing a gentle salsa with honey water, cucumber, jalapeno, and coriander. It's been ages since I had a picante that wasn't confused about its own identity. This one is a well-made picante. The kind that makes you go quiet mid-sip and just nod at your own glass in mutual respect.
Next, I tried Hello Stranger - vodka, lavender, blueberry and honey water garnished with blueberry dust. Soft, refreshing and a little flirty.
But then… Beach Day walked in and in no time, everything else on the table became supporting characters. The description promised, “It was smooth, rich and cherished like footprints in the sand,” and honestly? It delivered hard. Gin, Martini, pineapple, strawberry, and truffle oil all stirred into a sunkissed dream and served with parmesan cheese and olives. I took one sip and immediately committed to a second round. By the third sip, I had mentally RSVP'd to come back. By the last sip, I was already plotting my next trip from Mumbai to Pune, because this isn't just a cocktail, it's perhaps the best drink I have had in a long time. And let's be honest, when a drink makes you willing to endure Mumbai-Pune traffic twice, you know it's not just good - it's something!
The food:
Ah yes, steak tartare. One of my favourite things to order because I like my meat raw. The tartare comes covered with puffed-up prawn crackers adding mystery to what's beneath them. There's minced buff with wasabi aioli, pickled shallots, and gherkins. The crackers give a curious crunch to the velvety richness of the meat. The wasabi aioli did deliver a polite slap to the sinuses, while the pickled bits brought the sort of sharp-tongued acidity that every good tartare deserves.
Then came the chef's favourite, the Negroni-spiced kingfish crudo. Slices of kingfish, slicked in a marinade of gin, Campari, and vermouth with a punchy sidekick in the form of capers and a tangy rhubarb bite. A burnt orange drizzle finished the plate with the kind of flourish that says, “I know exactly what I'm doing, and you should be grateful.” Chef Ambar, clearly proud, says “It's fresh, vibrant, and beautifully balanced, with flavours that pay homage to the classic Negroni while letting the quality of the kingfish shine." Let's just say, the chef's self-praise is entirely warranted.
Next I marched on to the toast and toppings. First up, is the Madeira chicken liver brioche. The cocoa tulle added an oddly charming whisper of sweetness, while the rhubarb and the pistachio threw in crunch and tartness. Just as I finished my third dish, I noticed Damini Halli, co-founder of the restaurant, walk over to clear my plate - a rare striking sight. It's not everyday you see a restaurant owner so hands-on and genuinely invested in the guest experience, right? When I gently protest and tell her it's not necessary, she smiles and says, “No job is ever too small. Whether it's taking orders or clearing tables. When you build something from the ground up, you know it's better than anyone else, and the best way to bring that vision to life is by being present.”
She goes on to share, "Some of my favourite dining experiences have been in places where the owner or chef was involved, sharing stories, suggesting dishes, and making guests feel at home. That energy is irreplaceable, and it's exactly what I want to bring to Nanna's Negroni." Then came the crab and garlic butter focaccia, which with its rich topping of crab, avocado, apple remoulade, and little pops of pomegranate was more a decadent open-faced sandwich than a mere slice of bread. It was buttery, messy, and difficult to eat with dignity.
And finally, the pasta. Hand-rolled pappardelle with braised pork in a sage broth so intense, and so profoundly savoury. If a pasta dish can blow your mind without resorting to gimmickry, this one did it - with nothing more than skill, time, and the understanding that some things are best when cooked low, slow, and with a bit of soul.
I ended the meal with a tiramisu, of course. The kind that doesn't just sit there in a sponge of cream and cocoa but has layers with purpose, a boozy backbone, and a finish that leaves you briefly considering licking the plate, decorum be damned.
Where: Nanna's Negroni, Siddh Icon, GA-1, Baner, Pune, Maharashtra.
Cost for two: INR 3,500 (with alcohol)