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The culinary evolution of Morocco, while not much different from other nations that have had to deal with invasion and colonisation, and trade of course, is an interesting story. What started with the North African ethnic group of the Berbers that dominated the region over 2000 years ago, Moroccan food is a stellar example of how the Romans, Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Arabs, the French have in their way influenced what Moroccan food is today.
And while the tagine, the OG slow-cooking vessel brought in by the Berbers, and the cous-cous, are what most of Moroccan food is known by, the cuisine has a lot more to offer, including the vibrant street food culture of the nation.
Chef de cuisine Jawad Oumerri from The Oberoi, Marrakech is in India for his second series of popups in Bengaluru and Kolkata where he'll be taking diners through the various essences of Moroccan food. "Moroccan food has evolved over thousands of years and have absorbed trends from central Asia to French and Italian influences. Given that it has been a hub for international trade for centuries, it has been home to cultures from across the globe, especially the French, Spanish (Andalusia) and Italian which has shaped Moroccan cuisine of today," Oumerri begins.
More than the Spaniards and Arabs who have had an over-arching influence across North Africa, the chef continues, "Morocco has seen more of French and Italian influence to cull out its identity. The techniques of simmering or reducing sauces, use of salt-infused butter to cook cous-cous, creating risotto like accompaniments with our lamb or chicken dishes , stews and grills have come from both French and Italian traders and colonists."
This is quite possibly why, Moroccan food has always found love in India. "Spices are a common thread between Indian and Moroccan food. We use spices such as cumin, fennel, pepper, cinnamon, coriander but, we tend to dry or roast them and grind and use them. And techniques such as slow-cooking and marination of meats or even the dum-style of cooking are quite common between the two countries," he adds.
For this India feature, Oumerri will be presenting a menu that introduces his ancestral traditions to guests. "I have carefully researched and selected dishes that highlight spices, rich aromas, and traditional Moroccan cooking techniques, he says, adding, "I am showcasing two kinds of genres during this promotion; a buffet format where we will be creating more popular favourites with authentic flavour profiles and a more refined , fine dining style inspired by classic French plating but celebrating Moroccan flavours, ingredients and cooking style."
The menu will feature dishes such as a fish tagine, free-range chicken M'hammer to the classic lamb tangia, and keeping vegetarians in mind kefta and vegetables berkoukech with preserved lemon and taliouine's saffron. Cumin, saffron, mint, fennel, tomatoes, preserved lemons and Moroccan dry spices are some of the chef's favourite ingredients and find their way into his cooking some way or the other.
Delving into Moroccan techniques and ingredients, Oumerri says, "The Tagine for example is an instrument alone of presenting or finishing food on, but we use techniques such as slow-pot cooking, ouzi or cooking meat underground with coal or wood fire, sometime hot sand, to open grills. We use seasonal vegetables to make some refreshing salads and infuse lentils or legumes to make a whole meal. For instance, for one of my dishes, I am making a salad with roasted bell peppers with dry Moroccan spices, and sweet carrots infused with cinnamon, vanilla and hint of mint."
Oumerri, who enjoys cooking with fish and lamb the most, mostly because it "allows both fresh grill and lamb slow-cooking", says that at the end of the day, what he loves eating the most is his mother's simple butter infused couscous with lamb stew or fresh fish, grilled and had with salads.
The Moroccan food promotion is being held at Lapis, The Oberoi Bengaluru till July 14 and at 363 at The Oberoi Grand, Kolkata from July 19-22, 2024.