Diwali snacking is tied to nostalgia. We remember our grannies, and mothers making curly chaklis, rolling out soft khandvi, skilfully folding gujiyas and frying copious amounts of spicy sev.
Diwali is about sitting together, and nashta (snacks) being the centre point, Anuradha Joshi Medhora of Charoli, a catering company and cloud kitchen that aims to revive the cuisine of Malwa royals, agrees. She reminisces her childhood in Indore. With much fanfare, her grandfather would get four helpers to heat the kadhai for chakli. He would work the yantra and churn them into the oil. The kids would sit in the kitchen waiting to bite into freshly fried chakli with fresh makkhan (white butter).
Hailing from a Maharashtrian family, Chef Ebaani Tewari of Kari Apla is big on Diwali. Sharing her traditions, she says, “Growing up, we would wake up before sunrise for the Angol (first bath on New Year with a sandalwood uttan), dress in our new outfits and mom would perform the pooja. We would each crush a small fruit called karit under our feet to ward off evil,” says Tewari.
This tradition led to a hearty breakfast of all the Diwali nashta her mum made. “Faraaal, karanji, chivda, teekha sev and chakli, while sweets included besan ka ladoo and my favourite, Shankarpara. We make two types of poha – one soaked in milk and the other in dahi,” she says, adding, “But for many, urban families have become smaller and making nashta at home is not a norm any more, We are spoilt for choices to order from,” Tewari points out.
Diwali to order
Aazol, which launched in 2023 as a social impact organisation that curated clean homemade snacks and products made by women from rural communities across Maharashtra and along the Konkan belt, is offering a festive faral box packed with Jowar Chivda, Poha Chivda and Ragi Ladoo. “In urban areas, consumers don't have access to the products that they remember consuming as children. But they still have that remembrance. All our products are less fried, less oil, the other lead in that same traditional manner that they were generations ago. It's made in villages, traditionally, with techniques that have been in the family for decades. They will necessarily be less processed, less unhealthy,” founder Siddharth Purohit tells us.
Along with sweet treats, this year, Heena Punwani, chef-founder of Maska Bakery has made a mathri shortbread inspired by the version her mum makes. “Growing up, I would help her roll them out. They would be flavoured with kalonji and ajwain, and fried in ghee. Our buttery shortbread relives that memory,” she tells us.
Their Teen Patti shortbread imitates the chakkna consumed during card parties. They are spiked with curry leaves and masala peanuts. “We take inspiration from the city and its traditions and incorporate it into our vision. We also have a baked flaky puff pastry version of Matar Gujiyas,” she adds.
Grazing tables for Diwali celebrations
Chef Divesh Aswani of Commis station, a catering company, says snacking in India has changed. The fried munchies have taken a back seat and so has indulgent portions. “Earlier, the focus was on serving wholesome show stopper dishes. Today, people want small portions. The concept is a bite size canape and to do a whole grazing table - dips and chips, whole foods, chicken rice rolls, truffle edamame. Portions are smaller, people can pick want they want to eat and leave out what they don’t like instead of wasting. People don’t like a single large bowl, well presented, pick up you eat, or you can choose what you want to eat, canapés are the way to go,” he explains.
Medhora, too, has designed a grazing table that moonlights as a hamper too - an assortment of karanjis, kebabs, Maharashtrian chivda-made of toasted flat poha and dry fruits, shakarpara, along with aloo, corn and peas gujiyas. “Grazing tables have fusion, and mixed cuisines, but the classics hold their ground. People do love seeing them on the tables and digging into them,” she says.
For Chef Amal Farooque, who runs Gourmet catering brand Sage and Olio, Diwali is a time to flex her fusion style – marrying food history, nostalgia and modern cooking. “That is what a guest will remember,” says Farooque. Her karanjis are stuffed edamame and truffle, the imli chutney on the pyaaz kachori is accompanied by a Sichuan chutney and crunchy with carrots, spring onions, white onions and radish. The Dahi Vada is topped with lacto-fermented blueberry salsa.
“It’s our recipe for hot sauce, and it goes perfectly with our chaat,” she says. From making cream cheese in house to adding thai chilli basil flavours to bhel, all age groups will love her grazing table she promises.
Flavour of the season
According to Akshat Agarwal, business head, Sage & Saffron owned by Aditi Dugar, people are leaning more towards comfort dishes. “What is eternal, however, is customers’ penchant for chatpata flavours and fresh, hot snacks. Those will probably never go out of style,” adding that Diwali savouries have pushed the envelope and evolved over the years.
“However, you can’t stay too far from what Diwali snacks stand for – they need to evoke nostalgia and flavour profiles one associates with the festival. Individual grazing boards are a big hit – they look classier and neater even by the second or third serving compared to a larger grazing table. Guests love creamy and cheesy savoury dips with different kinds of crackers. Grazing tables are leaning more towards Indian fare. Diwali is the one-time people can’t resist the food. But they’re making a few changes like avoiding fried food. Dishes off the grills, more steamed fare, cold plates or carpaccio in spoons are also a big hit,” he signs off.