Raghurajpur: The Village In Odisha Where Artists Rule

On a much-awaited trip to Puri in Odisha that happened during the annual Rath Yatra, where I finally had the darshan of Lord Jagannath, it was an art connection that had me finding my way to the heritage village of Raghurajpur. 

Pattachitra chronicles 

The famed wood idols of the Jagganath temple get a 15-day resting period before the annual Rath Yatra and at this time it is the pattachitra that replaces the idols. Incidentally, these are drawn by artists from Raghurajpur, a village where every home belongs to an artisan. Efforts by Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage or INTACH have ensured that this village today is a potpourri of colour. The ancient art of Pattachitra has its roots in Puri and initially saw different representations of Lord Jagannath being painted on the cotton textiles that are treated specifically. 

Today however, there are several other forms inspired by Indian mythology that can be seen on the paintings. Kalu Charan Bariki, a Pattachitra master craftsman and state handicrafts merit awardee, says, “Pattachitra is still being made in the traditional manner as it was in the past. The cloth used to paint is prepared specifically with gum made from white chalk and ground tamarind seeds which is then rubbed with stone to create a leather like finish on which the artists paint. We only have about six colours that are made using natural dye and we mix these colours to create over 20 shades. Initially we only used to make Lord Jagannath’s image and now we make Krishna Leela, Ganesha, scenes from the Mahabharata.” The artists are so skilled that they actually draw and paint directly without sketching. 

Heart for art 

Entering the small village that has about 160 homes in a couple of lanes is a sensory high. The route itself is scenic with swaying coconut palms for company. All homes have magnificent art work on their exterior walls making this easily one of the most colourful villages of India. It is also interesting to note that most artists here have won national and state level awards for their art and the best part is that you can visit their homes to see and buy their artwork directly from the artisans. And to keep the contemporary generation interested, the art is now being diversified into new forms. Biswanath Swain, national Awardee and artist who works on traditional Pattachitra painting, palm leaf engraving, tussar silk paintings stresses on the need to keep the art form contemporary with the use of innovative designs and creating utility items like lamp sets and more. “Pattachitra can be made on fabrics and on day-to-day products. I have my wife and sons who also work on the same and we are working on craft items that can be part of your home decor.” 

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Museum homes 

Walking around the lanes here you are bound to be invited inside. Do note, all the artists will invite you so you need to choose how many homes you have the time to visit. The homes have all kinds of art – Pattachitra is of course their calling card but you can pick up several small décor items as well. Prices are very reasonable and you are assured that it goes to the artist directly. In fact, the tree of life is a popular motif you can see here especially on the ‘tala patrachitra’ palm leaf paintings. This is like a scroll that is engraved with ink and colour and usually has motifs from the epics like Mahabharata on them. There are many products from masks, murals, smaller souvenirs, birds, kettles, vases, bowls, boxes, and small buckets (that also double up as planters) that are sold here. If you are looking for souvenirs to take back home, you will be spoilt for choice. 

Future perfect 

A visit to Raghurajpur is heartening also for the fact that there is a conscious effort to keep their craftsmanship alive. The artists have passed on their art to the next generation which gives hope for the art form. Speaking to the artists here, the sense of pride in the art is unmissable. Keshab, an artist in Raghurajpur has a home whose window has papier mâché masks hanging on it explains, “All of us work on traditional forms of art and this is continuing from many generations. If we do not teach our children who will continue this tradition of these art forms,” he asks and probably this is why this tiny village is wearing its heritage village' tag with pride and responsibility. 

Fact File 

Reach: Raghurajpur can be reached by road from Puri ideally by a cab that can take you to the village. 

Stay: There are comfortable accommodation options at Puri which is the closest city as there are no stay options in Raghurajpur. 

Good to know: Summers can get very hot, so carry a cap, water, and sunscreen.