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On a sunny afternoon, we are on our way to Batumi—the second-largest city of Georgia and the capital of the autonomous region of Adjara that lies on the coast of the Black Sea near the foot of the Lesser Caucasus Mountains, north of Turkey. Our very first spectacle of Batumi is the skyline made of a jumble of flamboyant buildings oozing Dubai and Vegas-esque big-city glamour. I roll down the windows of our speeding car for a clear view and start to wonder whether the glitzy beach resort city will have anything to offer a traveller who enjoys meaningful experiences featuring history, art, architecture, local cuisine and more.
Soon, we are at Radisson Blu Batumi, a contemporary-chic glass building surrounded by some intriguingly bizarre structures, located in the city centre, just a few minutes from the beach. The splendid coastal views from our uber-comfortable room are a pleasant surprise and instantly shake off the tiredness from the drive. We freshen up and head out to discover the city on foot. After aimlessly strolling down immaculate, palm-lined streets, we find ourselves at the buzzing Batumi Boulevard—a four-plus mile stretch along the coast which is said to be the life and soul of the city and its cultural heritage. The boulevard has been a source of peace and pleasure for the locals ever since Batumi was part of Imperial Russia. Families would come here for a walk under the sun with an umbrella to play, socialise, and forget the struggles of daily life for a few hours. Even today, this place has a delightful vibe with something in store for everyone. Think plentiful ice cream and souvenir shops, an inviting alley with billiards and tennis tables placed under the shade of old trees, recreation zones, a giant chess set, manicured gardens, photogenic sculptures, fountains, beach bars, restaurants, and more. With more than 40,000 subtropical florae planted here, there is a sincere dose of greenery too.
The wide seafront promenade has dedicated walking and cycling tracks teeming with people at any hour of the day. We see kids, teenagers, and couples–both young and old–traversing leisurely on bicycles, quadricycles, and electric scooters that can be easily rented on an hourly basis. The stone beach hugging the Black Sea is spotless, not too crowded, and ideal for sunbathing, enjoying a swim, reading a book, and simply revelling in the rhythm of sea life. We treat ourselves to an ice cream to beat the heat and keep walking at our own pace.
The seafront is dotted with sculptures, big and small. Standing near the massive Ferris wheel is the most noteworthy and one of our favourites: “Ali & Nino” or the “Statue of Love” by Georgian artist Tamar Kvesitadze. The kinetic composition of two figures made from stacked metal segments is inspired by the tragic romance of a Muslim Azerbaijani boy Ali and Christian Georgian princess Nino featured in Kurban Said’s novel. We enjoy the 10-minute automated act which displays the lovers moving towards each other and eventually merging, only to get separated again. At 7 pm, every evening, the monument is lit with dramatic, changing colours that give the figures more life and beauty.
Among other major highlights on the boulevard is the Batumi Octopus—located in front of the Hilton. Constructed in 1975 by architect George Chakhava and mosaic artist Zurab Kapanadze, the three-dimensional Soviet-style sculpture showcases splendid mosaic art and houses a café. Gardening enthusiasts shouldn’t miss the little Japanese wonderland just north of the Octopus. Decked with characteristic Japanese elements like a torii gate, lanterns, maple trees, a red bridge and toro stone, the garden is soul-nourishing. An architectural marvel, the Batumi Summer Theatre is a distinctive wooden building built without a single nail. While its exteriors are characterised by geometric patterns and carved ornamentation, the ceiling over the orchestra is painted to mirror the sky. Check for shows during the summer months.
Whether it’s day or night, Batumi Boulevard never disappoints. Come dusk, the promenade wears a wholly different avatar with soothing sunset colours and evening flea markets with carts selling everything from drinks and refreshments to jewellery, bags, clothing, and local crafts.
Beyond the beach bliss
Gape at Batumi’s futuristic architecture
There’s a reason Batumi is nicknamed ‘the Las Vegas of the Caucasus’. The city boasts an enviable blend of the old and new in architecture. We find ourselves constantly looking up in amazement as we saunter Batumi’s waterfront area which is home to ostentatious hotels and high-rises made from glass and steel and modern civic buildings that spell all things artful, whacky, and wild.
A building you certainly cannot ignore is the 35-storey Technological University Tower, the first building to have a Ferris wheel built into the facade. Completed in 2012, it has eight air-conditioned cabins that hang 330 feet above the ground and fit around 40 people. If the Ferris wheel was operational, it would certainly offer great views of the city. However, the building design was criticised for being unsuitable as an educational facility. Hence, it is being repurposed into a hotel.
Another gem is Spanish architect Alberto Domingo Cabo’s 130-metre-high Alphabetic Tower which has 33 letters of the Georgian alphabet wrapped around the building, ultimately culminating in a metallic sphere on top. Take the elevator that runs up the middle of the tower to arrive at the rotating panoramic restaurant, open terrace and observatory.
If you’ve been travelling around Georgia, you already know that all major cities across the country have their own House of Justice and Wedding Hall, often boasting uniqueness in design. Batumi’s Registry Office is made to look like a dolphin and a shell—it all depends on your perspective and the angle from which you’re looking at it. The work of Italian architect Michelle de Lucca, The House of Justice is built in the form of an inverted bottle with 17 floors. It looks rather stunning at night when illuminated.
In Batumi, enjoying fast food could feel like eating in a fine dining space. Located in Downtown Batumi and designed by architect Giorgi Khmaladze, Batumi’s McDonald’s is an award-winning futuristic glass structure which resembles a spaceship ready for take-off. A reflective pool and sloping garden make sure you forget you’re in the centre of one of the busiest parts of the city. And you’ll be surprised to know that it is built right on top of a gas station!
Roam the Old District with a camera around your neck
To admire the striking contrast in Batumi’s architecture, a guided or DIY walking tour of the charming and atmospheric Old Town is a must. It practically includes the area from Nuri Lake to the leafy Gamsakhurdia Street and can be easily covered at your own pace in an hour or two. Expect cobbled streets rich in old houses with carved wooden doors and wrought iron balconies, heritage buildings dating to the end of the 19th century, theatres, mosques, Art Nouveau facades, Art Deco corner buildings, fountains, and more. To learn more about some old architectural marvels and their history, be on the lookout for information panels and black-and-white photographs that reveal some interesting facts.
We start at the handsome Europe Square, Batumi’s biggest piazza and one of the city’s top attractions with a large fountain at its centre. Here also stands a statue of Medea, which holds a symbol of the power, glory, and cultural development of the Kingdom of Colchis—the Golden Fleece. However, what makes the square attractive are the buildings—some centuries-old, others new—that showcase an eclectic mix of architectural styles. Photogenic Belle Époque buildings, cafes with both indoor and outdoor seating, book shops, restaurants, and an old post office are located around the square. Europe Square is definitely one of the best places for sitting in peace and people-watching with a cup of coffee.
The nearby Apollo Theatre built in Art Nouveau style is worth your attention as it is the only movie theatre that has survived over the years and continues functioning post restoration. Cinema lovers, researchers, and students can pop in to check out “Batumi, Apollo - Unusual Exhibition”, a permanent exhibit dedicated to the cinematic history of the city and the feature films shot here.
Not too far from the theatre is Stalin’s House or Batumi Stalin Museum where the Soviet politician and revolutionary lived from 1901 to 1902. Many of his personal belongings like documents, toiletries, and bed have been preserved.
A popular gathering spot for the city residents, Batumi Piazza is an Italian-style square distinguished by its artistic, mosaic and stained-glass patterns. The mosaic, designed by a Georgian-Swiss designer Natalie de Pita-Amirejibi in 2010, was created from millions of small marble pieces brought from 15 different countries and effectively displays the harmony between sea elements and the urban expanse.
Indulge in rich, delicious Adjarian cuisine
Every region in Georgia has its own specialties and Adjara is no exception. The very first thing we sample here is Adjarian Khachapuri, the most famous boat-shaped version of Georgia’s cheese bread. Extremely rich and delicious, it’s served with an oozing egg and a cube of melted butter in the middle of a bed of molten cheese. Similar to lasagna in its texture and appearance, Achma is yet another variation of Khachapuri from Adjara and Abkhazia. It comes with a crispy crust sitting over tender, cheese-filled buttery layers.
Wherever you go in Georgia, there is no dearth of cheese and bread. A popular breakfast dish, Sinori is a thin lavash bread combined with Georgian cottage cheese and butter, and arranged in upright scrolls before being baked.
Another breakfast staple in Batumi as well as other parts of Georgia is Chirbuli which is essentially eggs smothered in a mildly-spicy sauce made with walnuts, tomatoes, and herbs. Yes, walnuts are ever present in Georgian cuisine!
If cheese is your weakness, you’re sure to love Borano—a fondue-like side dish made by combining Sulguni cheese with hot butter. Some locals add eggs or potatoes to the mixture. Enjoy it with local bread.
Adjarian cousin to Kharcho, Iakhni is “comfort in a bowl”. The calorie-rich beef stew uses nuts and spices and is served in many Batumi restaurants. While you’re in Batumi, you must enjoy the bounties of the sea. Barabuli or Red Mullet is a species of small fish that can be found near the Black Sea coast. Most restaurants serve it fresh, crispy, salty and perfectly cooked. Don’t forget to squeeze some lemon juice on top! Finish your elaborate meals with melt-in-mouth Adjarian halwa.
Quick tip: Craving a hearty, satisfying sandwich? Look no further than Maila on Rustaveli St 7. The no-frills eatery dishes out everything from pizzas and Khachapuri to hamburgers and sandwiches stuffed with fresh salads to chicken fillets, sausages, salami, sour cream and more. All breads are warm and freshly-baked!
Market lovers, listen up!
Whether it’s the Dezerter Bazaar in Tbilisi, Green Bazaar in Kutaisi or Batumi Central Market—Georgia’s bazaars are certainly a window to the lifestyle and the culinary culture of the country. Walking through Batumi Central Market while taking in the sounds, smells, sights and vibrant colours is a multisensory experience. The tidy, light-filled, indoor warehouse stocks everything from the freshest, seasonal fruits and vegetables to nuts, cheese, honey, candies, churchkhela, tobacco, tea, coffee, spices and more.
Take in bird’s eye views of the city, sea and the mountains
Georgia loves its cable cars! From Tbilisi’s beloved ropeway that connects Rike Park to Narikala fortress and Chiatura’s Soviet-era steel coffins to old-fashioned ariel tramways in Kutaisi and Borjomi, there are cable cars everywhere in the country.
Take Batumi's 15-minute Argo cableway trip which starts near Miracle Park on Gogebashvili Street and ends on Anuria Mountain, 256 meters above sea level. Hop off the gondola to arrive at a viewing platform from which you can grasp the overview of Batumi's cityscape and the magnificent contrast between the mountains and the sea. It is open throughout the year.
Batumi has lots of fantastic vantage points. For a tranquil experience, head to the Batumi Sameba Church, located around 8 km from the main city, on Mount Trinity. A fine example of typical Georgian cathedral architecture, the church premises comprise two temples forming a beautiful monastery complex and a nunnery at the back. Its viewing platform offers brilliant views of Batumi and the Black Sea. The church is open from 10 am to 6 pm in the summer season and shuts doors early in winter. If you’re planning to take in the sunset from Sameba, make sure to inquire about the timings before you head there.
RUINS OF PETRA FORTRESS–A QUICK PITSTOP
If you’re taking a road trip to Batumi, consider making a little break to visit the Petra Fortress—a historic fortress town located on the Black Sea Coast, in the village of Tsikhisdziri, Adjara. A relic of the Byzantine Empire and known as Justinian’s City in the past, it connected western Georgia to the Byzantine provinces and controlled all of the ships sailing along the eastern coast of the Black Sea. Since it was defended by a wall and sheer cliff, the site was quite inaccessible. Today, the Petra Fortress Museum and Reserve reveal a lot about the area’s history and strategic importance. Walking through the remains of the fortress, foundations of a 6th/7t-century basilica, the remains of a palace, an ancient bath, and ruined medical and military quarters can take you back in time.
How to get there:
Jazeera Airways offers regular, budget flights from major cities like Mumbai and Delhi to Tbilisi, the capital city of Georgia, with a short layover in Kuwait.