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Made To Measure: A Guide To Bespoke Labels For Men

Whether it’s for dressing up or down, a crop of bespoke menswear labels is gaining mainstream popularity.

Tejashee Kashyap

There’s something truly desirable about bespoke tailoring, isn’t there? The way garments fit exactly how they’re supposed to without making you feel uncomfortable is irreplaceable. Ironically, bespoke tailoring in menswear has always been a challenge, barring a few high-profile couture labels and formalwear brands. Men too have rarely taken the trouble to actually find a tailor to get their clothes custom-made. It is true that bespoke tailoring can be difficult as every cut, every silhouette, and every small detail must be taken into account.

“The evolution in menswear in India has been all about the aesthetics, thanks to digitisation and exposure to global fashion that has created a very informed consumer. Men consume fashion almost as much as women, today. They have formed their own perspective on it. And that adds an additional layer when it comes to design because western sensibilities are being merged with our traditional takes. While it’s not easy to design menswear today, it is definitely way more fun to function in this new, evolved market. That’s why we need to make it a personal responsibility to take the gorgeously diverse Indian aesthetic into a more contemporary space,” explains noted Indian designer, Kunal Rawal.

A tailored treatment makes sure the needs of the urban man are met with modern style and flair. It has taken time for menswear brands to introduce new cuts and shapes, but they are slowly moving forward. As a result, a new breed of designers, are striving to reintroduce bespoke apparel to the masses.

There are now bespoke menswear labels that will ensure you get the best fit and the right silhouette with impeccable tailoring, regardless of whether you prefer distinctive aesthetics, bold patterns, or unique cuts:

1. Sarah & Sandeep

Having been at the forefront of bespoke tailoring in India for nearly a decade now, Mumbai-based designer label Sarah & Sandeep guarantees a contemporary take on men’s clothing combined with precision tailoring. The subtle yet impactful monotone aesthetic, fluid tailoring and sophisticated geometric detailing that come from the brand make it a stand-out. Focusing on power and structure in their design aesthetics, the label has built a clientele that turns to them for formal and occasional outfits. Whether it's a tuxedo for parties, sherwanis for a wedding or just robes and pyjamas to chill and laze around, Sarah & Sandeep offers it all.

2. Siddhant Agrawal

Bold, avant-garde, quirky and eclectic best define Siddhant Agrawal's unique design aesthetic. The designs celebrate monochromatic hues and contemporary opulence while aiming to break free through its innovative approach. Whimsical yet laden with crisp lines and sharp tailoring, the practice at label Siddhant Agrawal stands for strength, equality and power dressing. Along with this, functionality, practical and fuss-free silhouettes are the USPs of the label.

3. Gargee Designer’s

This bespoke, Delhi-based menswear label by father-son duo Shyam and Ravi Gupta presents a range that is a beautiful blend of minimalism, elegance and comfort. It's the innovative play of colours, elegant motifs, and crisp tailoring that will get you hooked on the brand. The designer house has a variety of refined clothing for men in both traditional and western. You may choose from their diverse collection, whether it is you’re in need of a new suit for a client meeting or a stylish sherwani for a family gathering.

4. Philocaly

Celebrating the sartorial needs of the modern man, Philocaly is founded by Ashna Verma and ShreyVij. Their tailored blazers in pastel hues and lightweight fabrics are perfect for any occasion. If you’re someone who likes to make statements with their OOTDs, then this one's for you. And here’s the best bit - the brand also offers customisation to ensure exclusivity and a unique artisanal experience.

5. Khanijo

Designer Gaurav Khanijo’s eponymous label is an ode to a time when personal style reflected craftsmanship and culture. The USP of the label lies in creating fabrics filled with an abundance of colours and textures using indigenous weaves and hand-woven techniques. With a penchant for precise tailoring, the designer keeps the overall silhouette relaxed yet the garment still receives structure and a dash of tailoring on the sleeves or armholes or elsewhere. It's a mixture of vintage, classic, and modern design aesthetics.

6. Pawan Sachdeva

Pawan Sachdeva's eponymous label combines strong cuts, perfect fit, and power design sensibilities with refined, elegant, and versatile aesthetics. Catering to today's millennials who are fashion-conscious, the label understands the importance of blurring the line between high-end fashion and street style trends ensuring comfort remains a priority. Whether it’s for a wedding or an after-party, you’ll find timeless silhouettes that are made to measure for every occasion.

7. Siddartha Tytler

With an eye for edgy tailoring and carefully curating classy and quirky style, the designs of Siddartha Tytler stand for impeccable and modish menswear. His design game speaks an interesting language of offbeat textures, monochrome palettes, and sharp cuts, all united by the correct penchant for bold choices and dapper styles. The suit-ensembles from his label showcase dapper monochromatic looks. The men’s silhouettes with fancy threadwork, embroidery and sequins hinted at an effortless mix of formal wear with drama.

8. Kunal Anil Tanna

Designer Kunal Anil Tanna’s eponymous label runs a whole gamut of indo-western looks which means there’s a little something for every fashion lover. His take on classic Indian silhouettes imparts an elevated and luxurious finish to the basics, perfect for someone who wants to keep it simple yet chic with a modern aesthetic. Expect the elegance of classics with modern aesthetics with his bespoke brand.

9. Herringbone & Sui

Kabir Mehra and Samarth Hegde’s Herringbone & Sui focuses on creating impeccable, made-in-India menswear with a global appeal. Think of stylish Italian suits but made for the Indian audience and affordable luxury. Known for its impeccable suits, the brand has melded tailoring with technological made-to-measure service to create bespoke suits and separates.

10. The Maroon Suit

Fashion designer Chandan Gandhi’s The Maroon Suit offers exclusive and customised fits for individuals who desire for colour, life and creativity in their suits and tuxedos. The silhouettes are unique and bring out the funky and jazz aesthetic with a lot of colour and vigour that usually goes missing in men’s clothing.

11. Kunal Rawal

Designer Kunal Rawal’s designs always focused on the classical luxe minimal aesthete. Being a favourite for every groom's go-to designer for weddings or pre-wedding festivities, the label has deconstructed the bandhgala and showed men that they too can have fun with their looks on their D-day. “Our idea of offering customisation and personalisation has not changed. Today, every occasion is personalised, theme-driven and uber-unique, no two celebrations are alike. So that has to reflect in the garments, and we continue to do that year after year, collection after collection,” stresses Rawal. His non-conformist, multi-functional approach toward design, with his deconstructed sherwanis, and love for sharp silhouettes, clean lines and intricate-lavish details is what makes his label a bespoke choice.

Photo: Instagram/Sidharth Malhotra; Instagram/Vicky Kaushal
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