Lakme Fashion Week (LFW), in partnership with the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), is back with another season of its five-day fashion extravaganza. Kolkata-based designer Anamika Khanna opened the latest edition of the fashion week against the mesmerising backdrop of the Fountain of Joy, Jio World Centre in Mumbai. The designer’s showcase, presented under a starry sky, was from her prêtlabel AK-OK. The evening was all about good vibes with fashion that threw the spotlight on comfortable silhouettes for both men and women.
After an exciting opening show, Day 1 of LFW x FDCI October 2022 saw a combination of young and seasoned designers – from ‘INIFD Presents GenNext designers’, INIFD Launchpad winners, to Swapna Anumolu of label Mishru, and Shantnu and Nikhil.
Here’s more on what went down at LFW x FDCI 2022 day one: 2022.
INIFD Presents GenNext
Under its exclusive property, INIFD Presents GenNext, Lakme Fashion x Fashion Design Council of India (LFW x FDCI) introduced its 34th batch of talented aspiring designers. This showcase put the spotlight on clothing ranges by five designers – Aseem Kapoor of label Aseem Kapoor, Somya Goyal of label Somya Goyal, Til by Ankur Verma, Re- by Ateev Anand, and Stoique by Arshna Raj. Contemporary silhouettes, vintage styles, natural fabrics, and Indian handicrafts are a few highlights of the luxury clothing ranges presented by GenNext designers.
FDCI Emerging Talent (men’s edit)
Another property that provides a platform for budding designers is FDCI’s Emerging Talent. This season, the ‘FDCI Emerging Talent’ showcase was focused on menswear, and it featured young labels such as Khanijo by Gaurav Khanijo, Countrymade by Sushant Abrol, and Son of a Noble SNOB by Mani Shankar Singh and Ritu Jain.
Inspired by the battlefield, Countrymade unveiled ‘Homecoming’, which comprised vintage, military-style jackets, comfy workwear shirt and bottom combo, and more, made using heavy linen blends in a variety of hemp, cotton, twill, handloom, denim and silk. Gaurav’s Khanijo, which is known for its colour-blocked looks, presented ‘Into the Labyrinth’. Khanijo’s range put the spotlight on loose, comfortable silhouettes with innovative touches for trousers. Perfect for men who love fusion wear, this featured jackets, shirts, and tunics.
Another fashion-forward menswear line, with eyes on minimalism and sustainability, was the label SNOB’sautumn/winter collection ‘The War Within’. It takes inspiration from the conflict of emotions inside us, and it consists of Indian silhouettes with a global outlook, influenced by sportswear. Think asymmetric kurta with pair of track pants, jackets, bundis, draped kurtas, and waistcoats.
The winners of INIFD Design Festival – Season 6, a virtual design competition held in February 2022 -showcased their creativity at the INIFD Launchpad presentation. Put together by 20 students – 14 fashion designers and 6 interior designers – the presentation was focused on athleisure and elevated streetwear.
The clothing and set design were inspired by OTT content. Gauhar Khan of Bigg Boss-fame brought the show to a dramatic close as she walked the ramp in a n an outfit designed by one of the students. Gauahar walked the ramp wearing a grey bralette with rhinestone straps paired with an ink blue one-shoulder top with a sheer sleeve and an asymmetric opaque skirt – a creation by one of the students.
‘Form and Feeling’ was the title of Mishru by Swapna Anumolu’s collection showcased at the LFW x FDCI October 2022. According to the designer, it was an homage to festive wear, inspired by nature, memories, and feelings. On offer were peplum tops, cholis, lehengas, saris, gowns, and fusion wear sets in vibrant colours enhanced with 3D floral appliques, heavy embroidery, sequin work, and other embellishments, and textured. These ensembles are suitable for weddings, festive, and cocktail parties.
Mishru’s showcase also featured four menswear looks consisting of formal kurtas, bandhgala jacket, bundi, and a few pairs of narrow-bottomed pants in shades of white, neon green, and black. Swapna roped in Bollywood star Mrunal Thakur to close the show for Mishru. The actor walked the ramp in an all-red heavily embellished and embroidered lehenga choli with a dupatta styled as a cape.
Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan
There was no shortage of sparkle and drama in designer Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan’s ‘Life is Beautiful’ presentation. Pallavi showcased an impressive range of formal womenswear in fabrics like metallic satin, tulle, and jacquard, dramatised with the use of feathers and sparkly embellishments. The colour of the outfits ranged from steel grey to powder blue, blush, sage green, classic ivory, and navy blue. The line-up had gowns with cut-outs and plunging necklines, maxi dresses, and capes, capelets, skirts with thigh-high slits, and short cocktail dresses.
Bollywood actor Diana Penty was the showstopper for Not So Serious by Pallavi Mohan and she was spotted wearing a glittery, ivory backless gown with cut-outs at the waist.
Geisha Designs by Paras and Shalini
Designers Shalini Jaikaria and Paras Bairoliya of Geisha Designs transported the attendees of their show to a fairy-tale land with their latest offering titled ‘Luminescent’. Their presentation at the LFW x FDCI October 2022 featured an array of chic evening wear made in hues such as silver, ruby, purple emerald, and midnight sky. The details on the ensembles were created using techniques and crafts like 3D appliques, knotting, cording, weaving, and embroidery.
International beauty and fashion influencer and entrepreneur Diipa Buller Khosla made a show-stopping entry on the ramp. She looked nothing short of a celestial beauty in an all-black mini dress with an oversized rose on the bodice and fringed hemlines. She donned this mini over a black bodysuit.
Shahab Durazi (A Retrospective)
Designer Shahab Durazi made an appearance on the runway after 12 long years, and we must say, it was totally worthwhile. Shahab’s collection brought together a retrospective of his brand with contemporary classics and exude a sense of nostalgia like no other.
Think beaded trousers, fringe-edged dresses, capes and coats with French motifs, accessories like belts with diamante buckles, and evening gowns in flowy as well as body-hugging silhouettes. Based on the impressive designs, one can surely say that for Shahab, art is all in the details.
Shantnu and Nikhil
Inspired by the brightest star in the galaxy, seasoned designer duo Shantnu and Nikhil’s Capella was a bridal couture collection, directed towards new-age brides. Blush pink, off-white, and mint-gold – were a few of the dominant colours in the range, and their designs were influenced by the Baroque era and its majestic artefacts - the chandeliers. It was a sparkly affair with each piece of clothing featuring regal stones, crystals, and chains inspired by the palace of Versailles.
The day-1 finale show ended with Bollywood actor and fitness entrepreneur Kriti Sanon, who donned a mint-julep lehenga adorned with regal stones, crystals, and embroidery, sparkling on the ramp.
Stay tuned to this space for details on Day 2 of LFW x FDCI October 2022