Restaurant Review: Torii Returns To Mumbai With Stunning Décor and Delicious Grills

In Japanese, the word Torii denotes a ‘traditional Japanese gate most commonly found at the entrance of a Shinto shrine’. As we approach the recently reopened progressive Asian restaurant at Union Park, Khar – earlier called Tori with a single ‘I’, the large and impressive dark green door framed in backlit black and white onyx seems to be in accordance with the theme. 

This is interior designer Gauri Khan’s first venture into hospitality as a partner, so rest assured the décor and interiors are taken care of. Khan has ventured into the space along with restaurateur Abhayraj Kohli and entrepreneur Tanaaz Bhatia. 

Décor on point 

 There’s a sense of opulence which instantly brings to mind Khan’s signature style. Right from the island bar with its back-painted green glass and brass accents to the artwork adorning the restaurant’s walls and the abundance of large mirrors – even on the ceiling - vases and greenery to the use of colours such as black, white and gold with splashes of jade green and deep reds, Khan’s stamp is everywhere. 

In a post on Instagram, she had shared her thoughts behind the restaurant’s food and décor. 

“Once I began designing restaurants it got me thinking about how I could be more involved in this industry which I find exciting and innovative. With Torii, Abhayraj, Tanaaz and I wanted to create a sexy, sophisticated, and glamorous restaurant and bar where quality is seen in everything from the food to the drinks and of course, the design,” she wrote. 

From the menu 

While the stunning décor can only engage your senses to a point, beyond that it is the food that speaks and that is where chef Stefan Gadit, with his training in North American and European cuisine, and his global approach to food comes in. Gadit, who came on board in January, says that he went through the earlier menu, broke it down and streamlined it, keeping the essence of Torii in mind. “I’ve added some dishes from the charcoal grill as well as some signature cold dishes and in the future, I hope to revamp the entire menu,” he says. 

First up on the table comes the Cherry Tomato and Feta Salad with a shizo cream cheese base and ponzu; the fried kale on top adding the much-needed crunchy texture. The Hamachi Carpaccio, a delicate dish enhanced with a tangy dressing truffle and soy vinaigrette and chilli is a crowd-pleaser.  

From the charcoal grill, the chef sends out the Charred Broccoli and the Chicken Yakitori. Both the dishes – the former featuring grilled and charred broccoli with seaweed furikake (Japanese seasoning) and the latter, slightly overcooked chicken glazed with fermented plum and soy – fail to elicit any positive reactions. 

Restaurant Review: A First Look At Megumi That’s Set To Woo Mumbai With Its Japanese Cuisine

The highlights of the meal? The King Oyster Mushroom Kushiyaki - succulent and juicy king oyster mushrooms grilled to perfection with a lemon-chilli vinaigrette. The Shrimp Kushiyaki from the charcoal grill section is another simple yet flavourful dish with grilled shrimps, gochujang and furikake. 

And if there’s only one thing you have from the dessert section, make it the Shibuya Toast. The dessert takes inspiration from co-founder Abhayraj’s travels to Thailand where he came across a dessert place that sells many varieties of the dish. At Torii, the Japanese dessert made of bread – though it could have been much softer and moist – has a filling of macerated strawberries and is topped with a caramelly honey ice-cream. The result is happy faces around the table. 

From the bar 

We wish the same could be said about the bar programme as well but the cocktails, save one or two, are yet to attain the subtle balance of flavours required to make them go from ‘hmmm’ to ‘wow’. 

From the ones that did find favour, it was the vodka-based Kombu made using Parmesan cheese that stood out for its subtle balance of savoury and sweet. Mushroom-lovers can try the whisky-based Magic Mush with dried shiitake mushrooms cooked in a sweet soy sauce; the umami-rich cocktail comes with a mushroom-shaped meringue garnish on top of the glass. 

While the restaurant is yet to perfect its F&B offerings, they have their ingredients and techniques on point. With a few more tweaks and changes and a lunch-menu in the pipeline, there is much to look forward to from Torii. 

Address: 21, Pali Hill Road, Union Park, Khar West, Mumbai 

Timing: 7 pm- 1 am, Tuesday-Sunday 

Meal for two: Approx INR 5,000 inclusive of alcohol