Restaurant Review: The View And The Indulgent Food Are the Hallmarks Of Bastian At The Top

The rooftop restaurant is a sprawling space that boasts of an impressive F&B programme.

Published On Dec 08, 2023 | Updated On Mar 02, 2024

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From the 48th floor of Kohinoor Square in Dadar, Mumbai seems to twinkle like a multi-layered diamond necklace catching the light. It is a view worthy of being looked at, at leisure, but for now, the understated glamour of Bastian at the Top beckons. Mumbai’s latest go-to-place to party and dine at, has opened as a rooftop destination which offers stunning views of the city from atop. As we tear our eyes away from the bustling cityscape and focus indoors, it is another feast that awaits.  

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The sprawling – is there any other way to describe the restaurant spread across 23,000 square-feet – space is bathed in earthy neutral tones, beige and taupe. Stepping inside, one is almost engulfed by the feeling of being in a cave, albeit a very classy one, with its soaring ceilings and Cappadocia-esque entrance. Designed by Minal Chopra of ineedspace, who has also revamped their Bandra outlet, the sand-coloured interiors are lit up with the warm glow of lamps. The DJ spins beats from a corner of the dining space which offers a top view of the length of the space. Wicker ceiling lamps and camouflage netting on the roof add a beautiful rustic charm to the vibe. 

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The highlight of the interiors, however, is the 39-feet plunge pool which beckons with its inviting clear blue waters. Surrounded by lush foliage, one out of the three bars at the restaurant and colourful ceiling lamps that move up and down almost in sync with the music, the pool area is open for private events and parties. The approximately 450-cover restaurant exudes distressed vibes with its tone-on-tone colours and comfortable seating which includes lounge, high tables and chairs. 

All this, however, would hardly make any sense if the actual reason for the place – the food and beverages - did not match the stunning interior. All those doubts are laid to rest once chef Amol Phute starts bringing out the food. “Asian cuisine is one of our strongest points here. While we have retained the signatures from Bastian’s menu, almost 20 per cent of the menu is new,” he says. 

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He starts us off with the Lobstaa Bomb, which arrives in the form of four pani puris stuffed with lobster ceviche, kaffir and mint. Filling it up with a tangy litchi-orange juice, we have a go at trying to eat it at one go but fail. A tad difficult to eat but when it came to flavours, it is all there – a tangy, tantalising mouthful of lobster and litchi. 

In the meantime, mixologist Krishnamurthy brought in the Queen’s Mule and the Greenwich Meridian for me and my friend. The former did a fizzy dance on our palate with tequila, lemon, pomegranate seeds and ginger beer while the latter is a refreshing example of farm-to-glass mixology with its lemongrass infused gin, honey melon and mint. The Crab Roll that comes next does not make much of an impact; the crab meat, chipotle, house-made ponzu and truffle oil somehow do come together as they should leaving us with confused flavours. The Chicken and Prawns Chilli Dumpling score better – the generous stuffing and spicy dip elevating the experience. 

If you are a tuna or lamb fan, the Hot Rock Carpaccio is a must! Tiny pieces of the succulent meats are marinated in Korean chilli soy sauce and grilled directly on a hot stone for a few seconds on your table and the sizzling tuna or lamb pieces served on your plate. The accompanying radish salad adds the required crunch. 

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The dessert menu that follows seems to have something for almost everyone. Pastry chef Shreya Punjabi informs us that most of the dishes are new, with just one cheesecake on the menu. One dessert seems too few and so we settle on the Pistachio Tres Leches and the Mille Feuille. There’s a delicate sweetness to the moist sponge cake and we are happy to note that the pistachio does not overpower the taste in the former. But if we had to order again, it would be the light yet decadent Mille Feuille with the caramelised puff pastry at the centre. Salted caramel, caramel rice crisps and fluffy whipped cream complete the pull-me-up dessert. The food does come out tops at Bastian at the Top.

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Bastian at the Top, 48th floor, Kohinoor Square, Shivaji Park, Dadar West, Mumbai, INR 4,000 plus taxes (for two, without alcohol), opens at 7pm (from Tuesdays to Sundays)


Photo: Featured brand

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