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With a name like Bonita, which in Spanish and Portuguese translates to beautiful, I was undoubtedly expecting a restaurant that denoted beauty. As I entered the newly-opened ‘Bonita’ in South Goa, a cheery addition to Goa’s growing culinary landscape, what met my eyes, was an aesthetic, relaxed and welcoming space.
Bonita’s chic and elegant interiors in a soothing blue colour palette, with tasteful upholstery and design elements, was alluring. I couldn’t help, but ogle at the beautiful decor. Abundant natural light filtering in from the large windows, plants and foliage, add to the brightness and warmth of the restaurant, exuding a cosy vibe.
With a well-equipped bar, that greets you, upon entry, the expansive seating areas on either side, are comfortable, yet affording enough privacy. Post monsoons, a beautiful garden seating awaits diners, as well. The open kitchen allows you to peek at the chefs in action working at a frenetic pace, dishing out great fare.
Food for thought
At the helm is chef Sanchit Behl, a man of few words, who prefers his food to do the talking. He describes the food offerings as, global comfort food, as Bonita, is meant to be an “unpretentious place with an all-day bistro kind of vibe.” The dishes celebrate seasonality and local ingredient-led cooking. He admits, that top-notch quality ingredients and cooking techniques, elevate the flavours, in each dish. Truly, nothing, humdrum, comes out of his kitchen. My exciting meal bore testimony to that.
The food menu with Salads, Soups, Pizza, Burgers, Small Plates and Mains, boasted of familiar names, sans any fancy, incomprehensible descriptions. What was so unique about Bonita? I thought to myself. The answer came in the form of my Wild Mushroom Soup. Layered with flavours, I could taste the mushrooms distinctly, and no, they did not play second fiddle to any cheese or cream, as is usually the case. The Lamb Birria Tacos, came next. Neatly folded tacos, filled with melt-in-the-mouth, well-spiced lamb, just the way I love it, served with birria or a meaty soup-like dip.
The Smokey BBQ Chicken Pizza, seemed like just another pizza, but I was mistaken. A bite and I realised, that the light and airy base, was made from a well-fermented dough which heightened the complex textures and flavours. The generous toppings added depth of flavour in each bite. And indeed, it passed the test, as I did not feel bloated or uncomfortable even several hours later.
The Crusted Fish was picture-perfect visually and the flavours and textures too, provided able support. The crunchy crust of the fish, crafted with perfect technique, stood out for me. Boasting of mellow, but distinct flavours of dill and lime, the fish was light and teased my taste buds, making for a perfect main dish.
Vegetarians need not despair, as there are abundant options to choose from. The Rechado Beets & Burrata among Small Plates, is definitely worth a try. Equally robust and palate-pleasing, is the Roasted Butternut Squash Ricotta Tortellini.
From the bar
The bar at Bonita, is eye-catching. The bartender seemingly goes about his work unobtrusively, but his adroitness and flair, are hard-to-miss. The inventive signature cocktails that emerge, are an unparalleled treat. Beach Bum, with a finger millet-infused whiskey, is cleverly crafted. Coastline, stands out with unique flavours of bacon-washed vodka, tomato, chilli sauce, tamarind, offering a spicy and tantalizing sensation in each sip.
For those who don’t fancy these, Tiki-based cocktails are on offer too. Equally well-covered, are the non-alcoholics, with creative options like Kiwi Swash and Jalisco Cooler.
Grand finale
The best part of my meal anywhere, is invariably the dessert, given my incorrigible sweet tooth. The Chilli Pineapple Tres Leches, immediately caught my eye, and I couldn’t wait to dig into it, when it arrived. Looked delicious, but fell short of my expectations. The sponge cake was a tad dry and the leche lacked the inherent rich, creamy texture and sweetness, one associates with this dessert. Just as I was soaking in my disappointment, the Guava Cheese Parcels, came to my rescue and made me forget my sorrows. Generously filled, neat parcels, executed to perfection, satiated my sweet cravings and the dollop of ice cream and perad pieces, brought together all the elements, creating a flavour explosion. All was forgiven and forgotten, instantly.
I stepped out of Bonita, smiling ear to ear, on this beautiful Monsoon afternoon. Everything tastes almost like a comforting, soul-warming meal you’ve eaten before, but with their own exciting twists executed impeccably, making the most of seasonal ingredients and decades of chef know-how.
Address: Bonita, Arossim Beach, Cansaulim
Timings: 12pm- 11pm
Meal for two: INR 4000 plus taxes approx