There is a sense of calm in the air as I walk into Nisaba just short of a week before its opening. I wonder if it is the calm before the storm that will inevitably hit the city when the restaurant throws open its doors on 17 th January. After all, the country’s most acclaimed chef, who turned the spotlight on Indian cuisine with his inventive touches, is finally back in the game with his own venture.
Nisaba is Mehrotra’s maiden restaurant launched under the Manish Mehrotra Culinary Arts (MMCA) banner. He is not a bundle of nerves. “I am staying away from labels like modern and progressive,” he says. This time the master of his craft has set out to show how good and soulful simple Indian fare can taste – without any fuss or gimmicks.
A clean space
Located in Humayun’s Tomb Museum Complex at Sunder Nursery, a part of the restaurant overlooks the expansive greens. Natural light floods the dining area bringing the space alive. I walk into a lounge area with a bar at the end and an eye-catching sculpture by artist Dhananjay Singh, an upside-down human figure from which roots and leaves emerge reflecting growth and creation. With clean lines, a bookshelf stacked with cookbooks, and a private room for 14, the dining space is the perfect backdrop for Mehrotra’s culinary artistry.
Flavours that travel across India
Named after the Mesopotamian ancient goddess of grain and writing, Nisaba is inspired from everyday dishes found across India – from Amritsari fish to the Gucchi mushrooms of Himachal and Kashmiri haaq. What is cooked in dhabas and by street vendors finds its way to your plate here – of course in a slightly fancy version but still grounded.
The menu is neatly divided into two pages – vegetarian and non-vegetarian with small and large plates. I am surprised to see butter chicken in the former section. Lighter than the staple version, it comes with a smoky makhani sauce that enhances the flavour, achari mirch that gives it a tangy kick and onion rings instead of lacha pyaaz. This is completely Mehrotra’s style – take a regular favourite and elevate it to a whole new level.
There cannot be a Manish Mehrotra restaurant without his signature blue cheese touch. After all, it was the blue cheese naan that became an instant hit when he introduced it at Indian Accent. This time, the buttery blue cheese arrives crumbled on top of mutton seekh kebab. As I scooped it off the kebab with the sweet baked naan that accompanied it, there was an explosion of flavours in my mouth. Only he can pull off a combination of two such strong tastes with such ease.
I asked him if the blue cheese naan will make a comeback. “I think I’ll have to introduce it because people have been asking me about it,” he smiles. The tiger prawns with Konkan butter and Goan poee bread remind one of coastal India – rich in flavour and so comforting. Something as basic as a samosa, which arrives sitting on a bed of Moradabadi dal along with onions, tomatoes and chutney becomes more delicious due to its unusual pairing with the humble moong dal.
As I get chatting with Mehrotra, he stresses the importance of ingredients. Pulling out a packet of hing, he asked me to smell it. “This is the most expensive ingredient in my kitchen. It is 60,000 rupees a kilo.” I am not surprised. If this is the kind of attention paid to the raw elements, how can the cuisine not be outstanding? Falling off the bones, the Motihari mutton arrives in a clay pot with fluffy hing sattu kachoris. They do justice to this heavenly preparation which must have been slow cooked for hours. I loved the chilli tomato crab ghotala served with warm buttered buns. The soft, minced crab with rich masala, onion and tomato was ever so comforting. Don’t leave without ordering his signature pao bhaji.
The sweet finale and beverages
Desserts mess with your head, not because they are complicated but because one realises how well certain combinations can taste. The cold and warm temperatures of the Treacle Tart, which is half a warm Gurgaon doda and half a pecan ice cream, work so well together that I lap it all up. Another surprising dessert is baked rasmalai. Now I’ve never had that before. Topped with fried chironji and nolen gur makhana, it surprises with crunch, texture and sweetness in every bite.
The beverage menu boasts signature cocktails and an extensive wine list (about 80 labels). Although the cocktail menu is limited, it is well thought out. Manish has stayed away from garnishes or turning food into cocktails. “I was clear I didn’t want any rasam, sambhar or nihari flavour in the cocktails,” he says. Not many places do a cocktail with bourbon, but Nisaba nails it—smooth and balanced, the Bourbon Mantar almost tastes like a Negroni.
Manish Mehrotra has returned with quiet confidence, but his food doesn’t make a noise. There are no theatrics, no long stories around each offering—just dishes that speak for themselves. Cooked with love and care and shaped by years of experience, each bite takes you on a journey across India. To say that this is going to be one of the hottest new openings of the year is probably an understatement.
Where: First Floor of the Humayun's Tomb World Heritage Site Museum, situated at Humayun’s Tomb - Sunder Nursery, Nizamuddin, New Delhi
Timings: Noon to midnight
Reservations: +91 98109 06091
Meal for two: INR 5,000 without alcohol