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In Kolkata, there are eateries and then there are eateries. And then there are institutions such as Mitra Café – a 114-year-old establishment that began with its first outlet at Shobhabazar in north Calcutta.
Founded by Ganesh Mitra, who then handed it over to Sushil Roy, the grandfather of the current owner Tapas Roy, Mitra Café was all about fried indulgences or rather snacks that Bengalis adore – from fish fry to mutton fry. But more than anything else, it’s the Kabiraji Cutlet that took Mitra Café to stardom.
And now, Mitra Café, which has at least 15 outlets in West Bengal and one in Puri in Odisha, has ventured out of the eastern part of India and opened an outlet in Bengaluru, bringing up the total to 16 Mitra Cafés in India.
The Kabiraji, which is quietly like the Bengali-fied version of ‘coverage’, originated what one might say at the ‘dak bungalows’ where the British officers wanted to try something new. Bhetki coated with deep-fried ‘laces’ of egg batter, this soul-nourishing snack looks like a honeycomb of sorts and is pretty much Kolkata’s pride and joy. A dish that’s equally popular in the legendary Basanta Cabin of Kolkata.
And let’s not forget the ‘Fish Orly’, a batter-fried dish made with bhetki (yes, again). Inspired by the French-style of frying fish, the Orly was also made famous by Bijoli Grill Caterers.
And while over the years, the restaurant added dishes that catered to the more young and modern generations of food lovers, its appeal continues to be in the ‘vintage’ menu of kabirajis, cutlets and chops that sits next to the pakodas and biryani and mutton kosha. Dig in.
The Bengaluru outlet of Mitra Café is location in 6th Block, Koramangala.