We all know the basics of healthy eating: opt for whole foods, meticulously choose your fruits and vegetables and diligently avoid processed junk. But what if the very foods we trust are silently betraying our efforts? Beneath the veneer of wholesome goodness, lurks a hidden threat: food adulteration, which is turning nourishment into potential triggers for various illnesses.
Adulteration has infiltrated our ‘healthiest foods.’ While pesticides and fertilizers have penetrated fruits and vegetables, chemicals have infiltrated milk and fillers and dyes have tainted our spices.
Dr. Shalini Arya, food scientist and professor of Food Engineering and Technology, Institute of Chemical Technology (ICT, Mumbai) and President of the Mumbai Chapter of the Association of Food Scientists and Technologists of India, has been at the forefront of this battle for purity. In a candid chat she helps navigate the world of adulterated foods and outlines some practical steps to ensure safe eating.
Edited Excerpts:
1. Food adulteration is a huge concern for people these days. As a food scientist what are your thoughts on this?
It’s very disturbing. There’s an alarming increase in adulteration of common food items. Companies that make these products have only one agenda – reduce costs and increase profits. Milk which is considered a complete food for young ones and adults is adulterated with formalin, urea, detergents and ammonia. Paneer, a good source of protein for vegetarians, is one of the most adulterated food items. Synthetic or analogue paneer, not even made from milk, has invaded the market. In our food analysis lab at ICT we conduct an adulteration test and find that it has additives and chemicals, starch being the most common adulterant in paneer. And it’s not surprising as starch pairs very well with milk. It doesn’t curdle while adding volume and stability to the paneer. It also makes the paneer whiter in colour. Sometimes milk adulterated with certain additives for a fatty mouthfeel is used to make paneer. Interestingly, the adulterers use science to such an extent that sometimes even lab tests fail to catch the adulteration. Many times food companies come to us to ask for ways to adulterate scientifically. We simply throw them out!
2. Which are the foods that are most susceptible for adulteration?
Apart from milk and milk products, tea is mixed with similar coloured husks. The red colour coating on tamarind seeds is mixed with coffee powder to increase volume and colour. Ghee is adulterated with dalda and palm oil. Honey is adulterated with sugar syrup. Even spices these days lack the aroma and the pungency. They are mixed with dyes.
3. So what is the solution?
Firstly, educate yourself. Check the products you use for smell, taste and how it feels. Make paneer at home. It doesn’t take too much effort. All you have to do is curdle milk. But make sure you are using food quality milk. That way you can be assured that there is no adulteration in the paneer you will be feeding your family. Testing for starch in your milk or paneer is simple – just add a few drops of iodine. If it turns blue/back, it’s adulterated with starch. To check for formalin, detergent and other additives you can buy the self-testing kit from a pharmacy. They are reliable. If you have to buy paneer from a shop, look for paneer that is not too white or perfectly formed. Paneer made from real milk has a good aroma and is slightly crumbly since no additives are added. It’s not rubbery or chewy.
4. Mangoes are in season now. Are artificially ripened mangoes a cause for concern?
Yes they are. Though ethylene is an approved ripening agent there is a certain protocol in its usage. But just to take advantage of the premium price at the beginning of the season, traders fasten the ripening process by using calcium carbide. It also helps them transport mangoes over long distances as artificially ripened mangoes remain hard, even when the exterior turns fully yellow. But when you slice them open, there is no flavour or sweetness. Calcium carbide is highly carcinogenic and contains arsenic and phosphorus compounds. It is banned in many countries in Europe. But in India it is commonly used to hasten the ripening process.
5. So what do you suggest?
Wash the mangoes 2-3 times under running water to get rid of the residue from the carbide. Don’t go for beautiful skin or even texture. Naturally ripened mangoes will have black spots and the skin will be wrinkled. Touch and feel the fruit – completely yellow mangoes with tight, hard skin may be artificially ripened.
6. As a food scientist what is your advice to people when it comes to food safety?
Mothers play a very important role as she is the buyer. She can make a choice to buy good quality, natural foods. Go for home cooked foods as much as possible. Avoid branded foods like sauces and ketchups. Instead of buying branded juices from the market, make a fresh one at home. I understand most women are working professionals but prior planning helps.
Buy from small farmers or women-led organisations like Bachat Gat in Maharashtra. They can’t afford these chemicals. But most importantly pay attention to the food you consume. Women are naturally tuned to these things.
7. What about food labels? Are there any red flags we must look for?
Nutritional labelling has empowered the consumers in making healthy choices. Most mothers feel fruit juices are healthy for their young ones. But most store bought juices are spiked with colours and flavours. They contain artificial sweeteners, even though the label says ‘no added sugar.’ Look out for trans fatty acid, cholesterol, high sugar, sodium levels, etc. Additives are mentioned as codes. You can google the code to know what chemicals it contains.
8. Are there reliable labs where one can get food tested? How feasible (financially and time wise) are these labs?
There are various government approved labs where one can get food items tested. We at ICT can also help with food testing. These tests are not expensive.
Dr Arya’s tips to combat food frauds
- Go for natural forms (not pretty or perfectly formed) in fruits and vegetables.
- Look for artificial sweeteners in fruit juices that say no added sugar. It is harmful.
- Go for unpolished rice and pulses where the nutrients are intact.
- Never consume fruits without washing 2-3 times under running water.
- Read the ingredient label carefully to check for chemicals/ stabilisers added in the packaged product
- Lastly, assess quality and authenticity through a sense of smell and taste.