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Whether you are a foodie or not, there is one thing you simply cannot miss in Varanasi—the food! And it is everywhere—the narrow alleys that surround the ghat are bustling with all kinds of food stalls. There are smaller, established outlets that churn crowd-pleasing chaats and local breakfast fare, as well as organised restaurants that give you a fine dining experience. Here is our list of the top 10 places and things to eat in Varanasi.
1. Kachori sabzi
Varanasi’s favourite breakfast, kachori sabzi, is something that both tourists and locals love. The quintessential breakfast, which is usually eaten with piping-hot jalebis, has several versions–you have an aloo (potato) kachori and the more common one that is stuffed with dal ki pithi and uses a combination of lentils and spices. The sabzi is made with boiled potatoes, black pepper, cloves, and spices and pairs perfectly with the fluffy, hot kachori. The popularity of the dish is so high that there is an entire alley called Kachori Gali near the Kashi Vishwanath Temple that is home to several stalls. Try the typical fare at Ram Bhandar, which has been around since 1887.
2. Baati chokha
Like litti chokha, the Baati Chokha of Varanasi is a popular dish that is typically eaten for lunch or dinner. “Varanasi's baatis are different as they are made completely with wheat flour, stuffed with sattu masala, and cooked over charcoal, which gives them a distinct taste," explains Shailendra Singhania, Manager at Dalmia House—a self-confessed foodie and local who understands the food of the region. This is usually had with the chokha, which is made with roasted eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes, ginger, and chillies and is spiced mildly. The intense smoky flavour of the chokha is an acquired taste, and it is best enjoyed with a dollop of ghee on the baati. Try it at Pallavi Baati Chokha at Sigra for an authentic experience.
3. Choora matar
A delightful mix of poha (beaten rice) and fresh green peas, the choora matar is a breakfast dish served all day—and is a favourite in the winter when peas are in season. The freshness of the flavours and simple spices is what makes this dish a winner. The peas are flavoured with ghee, cumin seeds, green chillies, black pepper powder, ginger, and garam masala. Garnished with coriander leaves and fried cashew nuts, there is a melange of tastes, sweetness from the peas, spice from ginger, green chillies, and pepper, and tanginess from lemon and cashews that add a crunch. It is the coming together of all these aspects that makes this a nice, wholesome dish. This dish is a must-try at the Deena Chat Bhandar at Luxa Road.
4. Malaiyyo
While using foam techniques of cooking is usually restricted to the uber-luxury Michelin-starred and fine dining restaurants, this has been done for ages on the roads of Varanasi. A winter specialty, Malaiyyo, is flavoured milk froth with nuts like almonds and pistachios and is flavoured with saffron strands. The recipe to make the dish is something that the vendors keep a secret, as it involves a lot of hard work in terms of ensuring the froth is churned continually. Served in small earthen pots, this is a dessert that must not be missed. You must try it at the Thatheri Bazaar, where you can see it being made as well.
5. Butter Toast
Using the word caesarean in the context of food may sound rather outlandish, but it is a popular sandwich served in Varanasi. This is a sandwich that uses two toasts with a thick layer of freshly churned white butter in between. Hold a plate when you eat this; the butter might just ooze out! The small restaurant located in the alleys surrounding the Vishwanath temple uses coal to toast the bread. You can also try the Amul Butter toast as well as the Malaki toast topped with fresh cream and sugar—a must if you have a sweet tooth. At Lakshmi Chai Wala, you can sample all of this and more. Of course, down it all with the famed kulhad chai (tea in a disposable earthen pot).
6. Banaras thali
If you are looking for a wholesome meal that will give you an experience of most of the typical local dishes of Varanasi, a thali is a great idea. Served on a pure bronze plate, the meal has two drinks—buttermilk and a cold drink like sherbet. The thali has one chaat dish, an assortment of local curries, dal, a small selection of different breads (roti, pulka, and missi), salad, pickle, chutney, khichdi, and desserts like the coconut laddu and cardamom kheer. Shree Shivay restaurant in Chotta Chuppepur serves a wholesome thali in a fine dining restaurant space.
7. Chaat
The chaat of Varanasi is known for packing a punch as far as taste and flavour are concerned. Did you know that most chaat here does not use garlic and onions? Well, this is one of the key aspects that differentiates the chaat of the city; but the absence of these ingredients can never be felt, as the chaat here is like no other. One of the more interesting chaat that is available in the many chaat centres in the city, the dahi golgappa, also called the dahi puchka, is a must try. Also check out the tamatar chaat, which uses thick slices of tomato as the base, and the Banarasi chaat, a melange of mashed potatoes, chickpeas, and crushed puchkas in a sweet and sour sauce topped with yogurt. Try the authentic chaat of the region at the famed Kashi Chat Bhandar at Godowlia.
8. Lal peda
If there is a sweet souvenir you want to take from the city, the lal peda wins hands down as it has a longer shelf life than the milk-based sweets. The origins of this sweet have an interesting backstory that dates back over 100 years. Locals tell me that this sweet was an accidental discovery, as one of the head cooks forgot to tell his assistant to remove the dish that had a mix of khoya and sugar that was being cooked. When he realised and came back to remove the vessel from the flame, he noticed that the khoya had turned into a dark red-hued paste, which led to the birth of this much-loved dessert. Check them out at Shree Rajbandhu Sweets in Govindpura.
9. Lassi
A favourite drink of the region, lassi is available in many stores in the city. The lassis are topped with different kinds of ingredients, like rabdi, malai, raisins, pistachios, and rose water. They are all hand-churned using wooden ladles and are available in many variants. Do not be surprised to see lassi stores offering over 60 kinds of lassi! While most guides mention the Blue Lassi shop, locals do say it is overrated and suggest other stores like the Raja Ram Lassi, which makes it fresh once you order it.
10. Banarasi paan
The paan of Varanasi is so intrinsic to its food culture that it was awarded a Geographic Indication (GI) tag earlier this year. The paan here is classic—where the betel leaf is topped with catechu, an extract from the Acacia tree, limestone paste, and betel nuts—and wrapped together to be enjoyed post a meal. There is a spiritual aspect as well, as locals believe that Shiva and Parvati brought it to Kashi from Kailash, where the first paan seed was planted. What makes the paan unique is a process called pakana, which is not about cooking but ensuring that the leaf is ripened enough that the paan just melts into your mouth. Paan is available everywhere in the city; pop one to enjoy the burst of flavours in your mouth.
Photo: Shutterstock; Bindu Gopal Rao