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A twenty-seater table dressed in banana leaves, tropical flowers that contrasted beautifully, coconut shells that waited to be filled, and cheerful chatter that echoed in the room. OMO Gurgaon’s lunch this Sunday marked their fourth birthday with an afternoon gathering that felt like a return to the fundamentals of food. Seasonal produce, sustainable and locally sourced, and an invitation to eat with your hands.
Spring was a beautiful element, visible both in the menu and in the layout. Pictures of the OMO team, on their adventures, while cooking, brainstorming, as well as the farmers they work with, adorned the space. And in an industry where ‘farm-to-table’ is often treated as a fashionable label, OMO has built its identity around practising the idea quite literally. As Rajan Sethi, Managing Director, Bright Hospitality - the brand behind OMO, pointed out, the menu at the eatery evolves daily. Working closely with partner farms and estates sustainably means fresh produce arrives daily. The team at OMO goes through it, shaping a menu that shifts depending on what the land yields.
In a region like Delhi NCR, where the general expectation of eating out includes alcohol and classic non-vegetarian fare, OMO stands out. The plant-forward menu, seasonal ferments, and coffee sourced from Indian estates is a rare combination in the city. Cherry on top is the constant playing around with local ingredients and traditional cooking techniques. And the birthday lunch was a treat that flaunted it well.
We started with the section of gather and eat. Communal eating, in-house baked breads, and a series of platters to dig into. Upcycled cauliflower with Eastern Mediterranean flavours, hand-churned butter with Naga chillies and herbs, Podi hummus with curry leaves, and so on. What stood out for us was Spring Has Sprung. A plate of whipped ricotta, snap peas, mint, pea shoots, and sweet peas sourced from Tijara farms. If you’re a city bum who’s never understood why peas are described as sweet, this spread at OMO is what you need to experience.
What came then were six courses celebrating the first harvest of the season. Chef Aayush and his team kept the momentum going, bringing out one thoughtful preparation after another. We started strong with Gondharaj lime and coconut meat ceviche. Think cloudy with a dash of tangy. The raw mango and herb oil only added to the freshness. This was quickly followed by Kachori. The iconic pyaaz kachori, but elevated; this had caramelised onion and corn. Served on a stone, it was topped by cacao and Mathania chilli mole, and lime goat cheese. Then we made our way down South with Parotha served taco style. Flaky Malabar parotta as the base, crispy cauliflower 65 as the filling, topped with yoghurt and a Chettinad tadka.
Alongside the free-flowing slow-fermented ginger beer, made in-house at Wild & Raw, the drink that blew our mind away was Smoked Chhaas, served in a small kulhar. Made using the traditional dhungar technique, the buttermilk carried a faint smokiness that transformed the familiar summer staple into something quietly remarkable. Simple, cooling and deeply comforting, it was a reminder of how little an ingredient needs when handled thoughtfully.
The next dish paired nostalgia with adventure. The Culinary Director at OMO, Chef Chetna Chopra’s Casoncelli, was a colourful melange of her memories. The filling of the khatta meetha kaddu, as it is cooked in many North Indian households, the coconut moilee sauce, drawing from culinary adventures across the country, and the pasta, from her time in Italy. Over the years, she has donned many hats in Italy. As a researcher, forager, winemaker, private chef, and even a farmer. Her experience shapes OMO’s menu in so many new ways, and the courses that followed were, in our humble opinion, the most exciting of all.
The last dish in the First Harvest section was Khichda. Think risotto styled but made with Bengali Gobindobhog rice, foraged morels, pan-tossed mushrooms, and an umami pâté. Served in a desi dona or pattal, it was decadent in its flavours, and yet felt so light. The last dish on the savoury side was the star of the Charred menu, introduced late last year. Oyster mushrooms live grilled, glazed with tamarind jaggery sauce, on a muhammara and feta spread, pistachio dukkah and chilli thecha sprinkled on top, served with a cucumber raita and pickled chilli. Their in-house pita bread was served too, and the directions? Break a piece of the bread, scoop the mushroom off the skewer, and pop it in.
The ending on a sweet note on the menu had two lovely preparations — Idukki and A True Cheesecake. While Idukki is perfect for folks who like their desserts a bit lighter, A True Cheesecake should be your pick if you like the feeling of actually ending on a sweet note. Made with 70% cacao sorbet, sesame butter, cacao nibs, and, hold your breath, black garlic mousse, Idukki is a gorgeous dish, with complex flavours that come together very smoothly. A True Cheesecake on the other hand, dulce de leche, white chocolate, and olive oil drizzled on top, was truly decadent.
Four years in, OMO Gurgaon makes you realise every time that thoughtful food doesn’t need spectacle. Sometimes, all it takes is the right ingredients, the right hands in the kitchen, and a table full of people willing to slow down and savour what the season brings.