Make it a speakeasy but take away the seriousness or sombreness surrounding it. That seems to have been the memo for Iki & Gai, the newly-opened ‘not your usual speakeasy’ in the capital. No place for dim lights or intimidating menus here. The wooden door swings open to reveal a place which is lit, cheerful and exudes a playful and casual vibe. As third-generation restaurateur and founder and head mixologist Sarthak Batra remarks, “The idea behind Iki & Gai was to make it look like a speakeasy, make it feel like a speakeasy but infuse it with a very high energy vibe. We want you to feel right at home… right up until the bill arrives at least,” he adds cheekily.
The concept
After studying culinary arts and architecture, both coming in handy once he decided to open his own bar, Batra was bitten by the acting bug for a bit before he decided to shift focus and open Shoes & Shakes – sneakers, clothing and a café all under one roof. Circumstances led to the company getting shut down and he was again left to ponder upon what he wants to do. A course in bartending and mixology in Goa led Batra to do an internship at Boiler Maker, one of the best bars in the country. At his own bar, he’s tried to take the lessons and learnings from all these experiences. And what does Iki & Gai mean? “Iki means chic and stylish while Gai means happy or vibrant,” says Batra, adding that they have tried to infuse all these elements into their food, drinks and décor.
So, your dessert might arrive on a cute trinket tray from handcrafted ceramic brand Klaylist even as you take in the dog planters on their shelves, read the playful gin menu’s reflection in the mirror, and get curious about the table tennis rackets placed on each table. On Saturday nights, they also play interactive games with the customers, encouraging them to talk to the guests on the table next to them. It is all part of the fun, easy and friendly vibe that Batra hopes to see more in the speakeasy scene.
The decor
The marble and wood bar in front anchors the intimate bar which sits bang in the middle of a shopping mall. Huge planters outside the bar do a fairly decent job of hiding it – as a speakeasy is generally meant to be – but Batra plans to heighten the vibe even further in the near future. The movable shelf will display vinyl records, bar paraphernalia and books related to all-things booze. Heavy velvet curtains will ensure no light gets out from inside. Entry only from the backdoor with specific instructions to the diners on how they need to conduct themselves.
Once inside, they will be led to their tables amidst dim lighting and music playing from a gramophone. Decibel meters on their tables will ensure they don’t speak above a certain volume and if they do, penalties would include downing shots – one that they pay for and another on the house.
The food
Although the initial idea behind the menu was to have a place where you can “eat your drink and drink your food”, Batra soon realised that it was easier said than done to have booze infused in each and every dish. Still, almost one-third of the food menu has dishes which have some or the other alcohol. Take the Bourbon Onion Rings, for instance. Perfectly fried, crispy golden rings were served with a bourbon-chipotle dip, the smokiness of the bourbon adding just the right amount of sass to the dish. Not a big fan of the Whisky Kissed Lamb Pearls though – the lamb meatballs tossed in a whisky based sauce lacked the punch it needed to take it from “it’s nice” to “it’s so good!”. The French Onion Soup, though, was another story. The deep caramelised sweetness from slow cooked onions lent a rich, sweet and savoury complexity to the thick soup which was interestingly served inside a hollow burger bun, and with a bun hat thrown in for good measure.
A drink at this point meant we needed something to snack on and what better than tender edamame tossed in a fiery garlic sauce – finger licking good! Perhaps one of the most innovative dishes on their menu, the Salmon Tataki came on a bed of crispy rice with a topping of spicy, tangy salmon and caviar. If Asian food is what you crave, then the Thai Asahi Bowl should be right up your alley. There’s heat from the chillies and freshness from other Thai ingredients such as lemongrass and galangal.
Come to think of it, most of the dishes we tasted at Iki & Gai have their spice levels slightly dialled up, which is why it is a good idea to end the meal on a sweet note – our vote goes to the not-overtly-sweet but highly decadent Coffee Cream Toast.
The drinks
With 13 classics and another 13 being their take on the classics, Iki & Gai is all about being authentic as well as rebellious. “With the classics, we play by the rules and with our own cocktails, we break them,” says Batra. Case in point, their version of the Margarita comes with tequila and orange liqueur along with peanut for a creamy, full-mouth feel. The Negroni goes down smoothly, leaving behind smoky notes of chocolate and spices. With sober cocktails trending around the world, there’s also a small section with our pick being the Ilaayagin – a layered drink with Sober pink gin and sweet and savoury notes from black cardamom soda and seaweed. The coffee menu looks good too, with drinks such as Black Honey Coffee, S’mores Hot Chocolate and Iced Uji Matcha among others. Alexa, play Espresso by Sabrina Carpenter!
Where: Ground Floor, Sangam Courtyard, RK Puram, New Delhi
Price for two (approx): Rs 1200 (not including alcohol)