My flight from Mumbai is over three hours delayed, and I land in Goa hangry and over-caffeinated. But one sip of Amaraanth's welcome drink and I slip effortlessly into the Goan state of mind. The refreshing kokum soda isn’t cloyingly sweet (as is common in most Goan hotels) and there’s just a hint of green chilli that elevates it above standard fare.
After a relaxing 90-minute hydro-spa therapy, I lounge by the pool with the signature Red Amaraanth cocktail that incorporates the Goan staple of lal maath (red amaranth leafy vegetable) into a gin-based drink. A plate of rava-fried prawns appears by my side, the pool laps gently by my feet, and dusk gives way to a velvety night sky — I appreciate the art of susegad, the laid-back way of life filled with a sense of contentment and relaxation that Goa is known for.
Located just minutes from Fatrade Beach (near Varca), Amaraanth is a recently-opened twelve-suite seaside hideaway in South Goa. The suites are spacious and well-appointed with luxe touches — think Tulio linen, Astoria coffee machines, Molton Brown toiletries, and butler service. Art abounds everywhere you look, with works by Subodh Kerkar, OC Martin, Thomas The Potter, Bhisaji Gadekar, and more gracing the rooms and common areas.
Cocktail hour
Apart from the luxe living, Amaraanth offers an exceptional drinking and dining experience. Their bar — which is christened The Lab — is in collaboration with Countertop India, a leading bar and beverage consulting company that has been instrumental in placing several Indian bars on the global cocktail map. Pankaj Balachandran, CEO of Countertop India says, “Sustainability and a closed-loop ecosystem are two of our pillars, so we work with local farmers, producers, and artisans in a 5 to 10 km radius here in South Goa to highlight regional flavours and advocate for locally made spirits. These include not just feni (the cashew-distilled spirit that Goa is famous for) but also many craft spirits that are produced in Goa.” For example, Red Amaraanth uses made-in-Goa Stranger and Sons gin and a red amaranth cordial that is made with leaves sourced from a woman farmer who sets up shop in Varca market. Similarly, the miso that goes into the whisky-based Miso cocktail comes from the Goan producer, Brown Koji Boy.
Goan flavours take centre stage with cocktails like Grandmom’s Curry, a tequila-based drink that manages to capture the essence of Goan fish curry in a glass. “It was difficult to get this cocktail right because it has so many ingredients like tomato, tamarind, ginger, coriander, and coconut milk. The more ingredients you put in a cocktail, the more difficult it is to balance it,” says Balachandran. But balanced it is, an easy-sipping serve with unmistakable Goan flavours.
Meanwhile, Tomato Tomato is a feni-based take on the Bloody Mary, a deliciously savoury cocktail that I cannot get enough of. “Almost every cocktail on the menu is thought through from the lens of Goa,” says Balachandran. He also recommends Hotel Lobby, a gin and Lillet concoction with heady jasmine, lavender, and marigold notes. “This drink is very emotional for me because I started my career in hotels. Elaborate flower arrangements are popular in the lobbies of all the Indian hotels and I wanted to distill that aroma into a drink,” he says.
One of The Lab’s key experiences is an immersive feni-tasting session, which takes place around the cashew tree that stands in the lawn. The experience brings out not only the tasting notes but also the socio-cultural importance of this potent spirit to Goans.
Platter pleasures
The stellar beverage menu is ably complemented by the food on offer. Amaraanth’s Culinary Curator, Chef Ritu Dalmia brings her vast experience to the project and has put together a menu that not only spotlights authentic, Goan-inspired food but also offers pan-Indian and international flavours. “I love to travel, and I prefer staying at smaller boutique hotels rather than chain hotels. So, when I was planning the Amaraanth menu, I put myself in the guest’s shoes. If I were staying at a place like Amaraanth I would spend at least two to three nights. Guests are usually in a lazy mood here and they end up eating several meals on the property, so our aim was not to create a fancy menu but to highlight South Goa’s produce and add some comfort foods to the mix,” says Chef Ritu. Interestingly, the menu begins by listing all the producers from whom Amaraanth sources its ingredients, whether it’s hydroponic vegetables from Just Greens or OG Mushrooms or Meat Up for chicken, pork, etc. “I live in Goa and one of the amazing things I find here is the producers who supply brilliant stuff. Ingredients are the backbone of our menu, so it was important for us to recognise the producers as they deserve,” she adds.
For breakfast, there’s everything from upma, dosa, and parathas to avocado on toast, pancakes, and eggs-to-order. The in-house wood-fired oven churns out sourdough, croissants, muffins, quiches, and the like. For lunch, Chef Ritu recommends the Goan thali; “I’m one of those greedy types who likes several things on a plate,” she says with a laugh. The thali is indeed fully loaded and comes with fish curry, prawn curry, chicken cafreal, tendli masala, dal, poie, red rice, and a small cup of sol kadi to wash it all down. You can also take your pick from the pizza bar and the sandwich bar; I try the poie sandwich for dinner, warm Goan poie bread stuffed with beef chilli fry, Emmental cheese, and bell peppers.
Other comfort dishes include pasta, chorizo pulao, and khichdi of the day. I round off my dinner with Chef Ritu’s famed tiramisu, a light-as-air coffee-laced mascarpone and savoiardi combination that — true to its name — lifts me up all the way to heaven.