The cosy interiors of Across at Kala Ghoda in South Mumbai reflect the warmth of the couple behind this unique restaurant. Prakriti Lama Patel and her husband Viraf Patel are no strangers to Mumbai's culinary scene. If there's a successful high-concept restaurant, chances are that Chef Viraf has had a hand in its creation and execution. Prakriti and he are both sought-after restaurant consultants, though she shares that this is the first time she's taking the stage, front and centre, with her cuisine and concept. They say the restaurant represents an 18-year journey of discovery, beginning when Viraf first encountered the rich tapestry of Himalayan cuisine through his wife's cultural heritage. Their first restaurant baby together brings alive Prakriti's food journey, from the foothills of the Himalayas in Nepal, to several life-changing experiences that both of than have shared at Everest Base Camp and beyond. Across is literally that — taking you on a culinary exploration across the Himalayas.
We start with the vegetarian Solu White Bean Hummus. They are particular about garnishing it with a few gleaming solu khumbu beans, not just for visual appeal but also so that you get an idea of their taste and texture. Topped with confit turmeric mushrooms that give an umami punch, the
hummus is served with something Prakriti likes to call 'insecurity bread'. "Bakers at high altitudes are always worried whether the bread will proof with only yeast. They add baking soda to the mix just to be on the safe side," she laughs, adding that the texture complements the silky hummus very well. We enjoy this Himalayan take on a middle-eastern fave.
The Bhattiwala chicken is their version of a snack that's often served in Newari bars in Nepal called bhattis to accompany the potent local liquor (rice gin) called raksi or aiyla. The cubed chicken is slow-roasted with cumin and other spices, which makes it the perfect bar bite, satiating your tastebuds but also making you crave something to wash it down with. My refreshing Bitter Orange cocktail (featuring Hapusa Himalayan and marmalade!) is very welcome. While this is a relatively simple drink that adds the mellow after a long day, I look forward to going back for other, more nuanced ones. The beautiful backlit bar seems like a good place for an easy drink and conversation. A place to slip into the more laidback vibe of the hills. And the ingredients on the bar menu — like hog plum shrub, timur pepper, kanchan cheese, etc — give many of the concoctions the Himalayan twist that ties them to the menu.
In fact, Prakriti's passion for the mountains of her early years shines through everything at Across. She and Viraf are encouraging Mumbai to experience the mystique of the mountains through food and food memories that they've translated for us through her knowledge of the region and
Viraf's city savvy. Giving us a chance to feel and understand the awe that mountains inspire, the realisation of how small we are in comparison to their stature and age.
As I mull over all this, another very soul-satisfying snackable is brought over to add to my food-induced reverie. The Timur potatoes are twice-cooked potato wedges with a generous sprinkle of Timur (sichuan) peppercorn dust, which has that distinctive citrusy hit of heat. Be warned, the wedges are totally addictive.
Mustard and sesame are not flavours I would normally imagine together, but the sharp dressing of the Black Pea salad with potato, cucumber and onions, is a pleasant reminder that there are unexpected pleasures to be found in unusual juxtapositions. Their Pomelo Salad, creamy with yogurt and mildly spiced, is pleasant, but could perhaps do with a little more citrus or cumin to pep it up. No such pep needed for the Prawn & Mustang Jimbu though. Beautifully cooked prawns that have soaked up the sauce's subtle flavours (somewhere between that of onions and chives) of the Himalayan herb called jimbu, usually found in Mustang, Nepal, or Kumaon, Uttarakhand. I enjoy it with Across's fabulously stretchy Tingmo, the gleaming steamed bread that's a staple across the Himalayan belt, which is served with a moreish scallion chilli butter. The combination by itself could easily have made me very happy without trying any other dishes!
But, next up, Buff Choila beckons. Initially, I'm a tad confused with the bowl of crisp red rice flakes that is served with the tender hay-smoked buff slices that have been cured, cooked, and then tempered with mustard oil. But when I follow the server's instructions and toss a spoonful into my mouth between bites, the crunch does make sense, balancing the textures of the finely carved slices of meat and the fresh spring onion. It's an oomphy Newari dish whose taste lingers on the tongue deliciously.
But, if you're looking for something that is more in your face, try the Bhutanese Ema Datsi. While it's not as rustic as the ones I had in Paro and Thimphu, this one does have the same chilli-to-cheese ratio and familiar flavours. Also in the big plates section, the Pork Trotters & Ham is a hearty bowl of umami goodness. The deeply satisfying chilli and tomato broth brings to mind a good paya soup, but this one is enhanced with burnt coriander seeds, which gives it an even more intense aroma that pleases the palate even before you taste it!
One would think that the procession of plates would've left no room for dessert. But Prakriti regales me with tales of her childhood forays into hill-station bakeries and the way they've dovetailed into dessert at Across, I'm intrigued. The German Bakery Walnut Cake, she says, is the old-school boiled chocolate frosting but with much better chocolate. A puff layered with stewed Himachal apples and whipped vanilla cream is the Apple Cremeschnitte. I decide to try the Creme Caramel. I usually like mine a little 'juicier' than the one at Across, but the bits of chakku (a jaggery and ghee reduction) on it are absolutely delectable, ever-so-slightly chewy and totally worth fighting over for the last morsel if you're sharing!
As of now, they offer a generous array of 22 small plates, 14 mains, four desserts and nine innovative cocktails (plus all the classics). Prakriti explains that while certain dishes will remain constant, a large part of the menu will change often according to what ingredients are freshest and most flavourful. She gives me a peek into her 'shopping list' where her mum sends her photos from mountain markets over whatsapp and Prakriti circles the ingredients that she wants her to source.
What this translates into is that you may find different dishes every time you return for another exciting mountain adventure! We are certainly not complaining.
Address: 5, Hari Chambers, 58/64 Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Fort, Mumbai
Cost for two (with drinks): Rs 5,000.