Experiencing The Sacred Chaos Of The Maha Kumbh

Ash-smeared Naga sadhus, meditative sadhus and the profound faith of 40 crore devotees converge at the Sangam for a spiritual gathering under a rare planetary alignment once in 144 years.

Published On Jan 24, 2025 | Updated On Jan 24, 2025

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Between the lifting of a heavy mist and the faint appearance of a hazy sun, the boat glides into the Triveni Sangam in Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh. This meeting point of three sacred rivers – the Ganga, the Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati – is believed to pulsate with the highest spiritual energy during the Kumbh. After a gap of 144 years, this year, we are here to witness the Maha Kumbh, which started on January 13 and ends on February 26 coinciding with Mahashivratri.

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People from all over the world have converged to witness this moment. The closer we get towards the Sangam to take a holy dip, a sense of calm prevails, leaving the chaos behind.

The cold water is unforgiving and embracing at the same time. I'm hit with an icy truth – the realisation of witnessing a once-in-a-lifetime event. A surge of gratitude rises. “Your soul is now purified and you have been absolved of all the sins you have committed in this lifetime,” a Panditji, sitting cross-legged on the shore, declares.

After a successful dip, our boat turns around, the winter sun now shining bright. A silence cloaks the passengers – as if, each is contemplating the feat they have achieved. Sure, the Universe conspired to bring us all to the largest spiritual gathering of people on Earth, we think.

The story of the Kumbh Mela stems from the Hindu Mythology of Samudra Manthan. Devas (Gods) and Asuras (Demons) fell into a fight over the nectar of immortality after churning the ocean for Amrit Kalash.

In this squabble, a few drops of Amrit fell on Prayagraj, Nashik, Ujjain and Haridwar, bestowing them with mystical powers. The Kumbh is celebrated at these four locations. Ardh Kumbh occurs every six years, Poorna Kumbh every 12 years and the Maha Kumbh, after 12 rounds of Poorn Kumbh. “The Maha Kumbh witnesses a special planetary position, placing the Sun, Moon, Mercury and Jupiter in a straight line,” Amit Vikram Singh Rana, our tour guide, explains.

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The Maha Kumbh began on the day of Paush Purnima, followed by Makar Sakranti on January 14.

Spiritual seekers hold a vested interest taking a dip in the rivers during the Maha Kumbh – to cleanse their sins and attain Moksha. The most anticipated day with a higher celestial significance is Shahi Snan. Next one coming up on January 29 will observe Mauni Amawasya, when Jupiter, Sun, Moon, Mercury and Paushya Nakshatra are in alignment. This is the most auspicious of the 27 nakshatras. February 3 coincides with Vasant Panchami; followed by Maaghi Purnima on February 12 and on the last day, February 26 is Mahashivratri.

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Millions of pilgrims, sages and sadhus come bearing their faith and devotion, thronging the banks of the Triveni Sangam for the holy dip to transcend them into a higher path of spirituality and improve their karma. Day one of the Maha Kumbh recorded an estimated figure of 1.5 crore people who bathed in the Sangam.

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With the holy dip in our kitty, we immerse ourselves in the dramatic scenes of the Mela. Congregations of saints, ascetics and Naga Sadhus have descended upon the holy land, making their procession (called Peshwais) an unforgettable sight.

Chariots decorated with flowers and crowds breaking into a rhythmic chant of ‘Har Har Mahadev’ make it an eventful visit. Founded by Adi Shankaracharya, all the 13 akhadas or branches of different religious sects of Hinduism can be seen at the Kumbh. This includes Shri Juna Akhada and Shri Niranjani Akhada – the oldest and most revered of them all.

Some sadhus have taken extreme vows. Baba Keshav Puri Multani also known as Khadeshwari Baba has been standing for the past six years, while Digambar Divakar’s left arm has been raised for several years. “Jan kalyan ke liye” (for the benefit of humanity),” he reasons. 
Ash-smeared Naga sadhus who have renounced clothing evoke a sense of awe. They do not suffer fools. With permission, we timidly approached one of them, bowing down and accepting a smear of ash on our foreheads.

Shri Shri Mahamandaleshwar Ji Maharaj of Juna Akhada doesn’t mince his words while throwing light on the Kumbh. “Bahot pehle idhar Kumbh hota tha, ab mela lagta hai (Many years ago this was Kumbh, now this is a show),” he says, opining that devotees who come with the thought of seeking answers, will receive them from the spiritual energies during this time.

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A visit to the Kumbh will be incomplete if you do not seek blessings at the revered temple of Shri Lete Hue Hanumanji. Situated on the banks of the Ganga, we view a reclining idol of Lord Hanuman past a few stairs in the lower level of the temple complex. Covered in flowers, big and benevolent eyes draw our attention.

Our guide Amit says, “Legend has it, Lord Hanuman was waiting at this very spot to meet Lord Ram who was on his way to Chitrakoot during his vanvaas. However, he fell into a deep sleep and only woke up when the Ganga waters got flooded. The reason he has big eyes is so that does not miss meeting his Lord the next time.”

Till date, people of Prayagraj believe that it has rained well only when the Ganga waters submerge the idol. “Locals believe Ganga Maiyaa pair chhoone aayi hai Hanumanji ke (Mother Ganga has come to touch Lord Hanuman’s feet),” he adds.

Another story mentions the King of Kannauj. Childless, he was guided in a dream to place an orange-coloured piece of stone on this spot in order to have a child. Centuries later, a mahatma sculpted the Hanuman idol out of it. “Even Aurangzeb tried to destroy the idol by pouring acid on it but remains indestructible,” he adds.

During these 45 days, close to 40 crore people will visit the holy city for the Maha Kumbh Mela - preparations for which began last year in January to accommodate 1,50,000 tents to house the pilgrims.

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For those who prefer to stay in comfort, like me, luxury tents such as juSTa Shivir Jhusi and The Bookmark Naga Shivir provide comfortable accommodations.

As I departed from Prayagraj, I took home a renewed sense of hope that can only come from a spiritual gathering ledged on the faith and devotion of millions of people seeking spiritual enlightenment. There could not be a bigger reminder of how the human spirit is above all differences. Har, Har, Mahadev!


Photo: juSTa Shivir Jhusi, Shutterstock