Sixteen years ago, Pooja Dhingra drew Mumbai’s attention in her black and fuchsia pink chef’s apron. All of 22 then, the Cesar Ritz alumnus had returned from Paris with a Le Cordon Bleu diploma in patisserie, and heady dreams of recreating a piece of her French affair.
Le15 Patisserie became her canvas to give us a taste of her Paris experience. Having trained at Pierre Hermé’s workshops, she opened that introductory conversation with the best macarons in the city, which earned her the title of India's macaron queen. She also opened Le 15 Café in Colaba, which put matcha latte on the menu, when no one wanted that “green tea”.
Yes, we sorely missed the croissant sandwiches and hot chocolate when it shuttered in 2020.
Between then and now, much has transpired: she has published seven books, hosted two seasons of the podcast No Sugar Coat, and became the first Indian and female chef to win the La Liste Pastry Game Changer Award in Paris last year. During the time of the ceremony. Last month, she opened Pardon Our French (POF), a café and bakehouse in Ballard Estate.
Dhingra has collaborated with design and branding lead Purva Mehra to conceptualise the 22-seater Parisian parlour. Done up in beige and soft pink tones, under the glow of globe lights, the space makes an inviting, casual and quirky first impression. Look around, and a statement smoked mirror, long drapes and cane chairs fill the space.
Over a dessert-y and double-shot Brown Butter Cappuccino (Rs 350), we talk about life and maturity. “I turn 40 this August, and I am training to run a marathon in Paris next month. “As a runner, I have become a boring person – I train most mornings, eat healthy mostly, and sleep early,” says Dhingra, who has also participated in Hyrox Mumbai twice in recent years. “That decision was definitely a midlife crisis,” she laughs.
Le15 Café was envisioned by a 20-something to express her multicultural experience. “Paris was the reference point. I had studied there, worked there, and I built a community of friends and mentors there. I am a different person now – more confident,” says Dhingra, adding that things are more fluid at POF. “The journey has been that of shedding a lot of layers and rediscovering who I am and what I want to do. This menu has no macarons. We are open to menu changes, and who knows, it may become a wine bar at some point,” she signs off.
Customer trends and behaviour patterns have changed in the past 15 years. “People are willingly ordering matcha,” Dhingra points out. Beverages hold equal weight on menus today, and between being healthy and indulgent, what they most value is connection, she says, adding, “Patrons seek a sense of belonging, especially now that everything is becoming so much more digital.
POF tastings
On our visit, we see nearby residents and officegoers already stopping by for coffee runs and quick grabs. Chef consultant Anandita Kamani, who has rustled up the savoury menu, brings us the British breakfast staple of Eggs and Soldiers. Slender toasted brioche strips to dip into runny soft-boiled eggs with cheese, side dips of chilli oil and labneh. The POF Savoury French Toast is a desi version with a topping of a sweet spicy salsa that packs in a masaledar punch.
The Lemon Cake (Rs 325) comes dressed pretty as a crumbly tea cake with a dollop spread of velvety lemon cream cheese curd and some blueberries. It has a mild zest and a sticky-sweet finish. The Black & White Cheesecake (Rs 425) is a dark chocolate adult indulgence of a chocolatey Bournvita crust under which dark chocolate and vanilla cheese cake layers sit. A luscious fudge sauce pampers our dessert craving to the fullest. For those seeking a lighter bite, may dip their Brown Butter Madeleines (Rs 350) made with dates into a savoury miso caramel.
Before we leave, we pick a takeaway cup vase holding up a sunflower in full bloom from the flower shop wall display curated by The Botanist florist. Ladies and gentlemen, you can really buy yourself flowers and totally make it a Parisian affair, bang in the middle of Ballard Estate.
At: Sushila Bhavan 24 Adi Marzban Path, ground floor, Ballard Estate, Fort
Timing: Tuesday to Sunday from 12 pm to 8 pm