Every "first time" holds its own thrill, and a Himalayan trek deserves a top spot on every bucket list. You may have dabbled in short day hikes and felt the exhilaration. Still, nothing compares to being completely cut off from civilisation, surrounded by one of the most dramatic landscapes on Earth. The Himalayas set the gold standard for remoteness with their towering peaks, untamed beauty, and the ultimate call to adventure. Yes, a beginner will be challenged, and yes, the usual concerns will surface – How tough will it be? What if the weather turns? Will I make it to the end?
The trick is to start easy. Especially if you’re not a fitness enthusiast or prefer moderate pursuits over extreme thrills for an adrenaline rush. Or perhaps you're an avid trekker wanting to share the experience with rookie friends or family. The downside of these? The treks are often accessible, crowded, and, unfortunately, littered.
That’s where the Ali Bedni Bugyal Trek comes in! While nearby super-popular trails attract herds of first-time trekkers in organised groups, this route remains blissfully overlooked. The distances are achievable, yet the vistas are jaw-dropping – and we say this from first-hand experience.
The journey to Lohajung
Our excursion kicked off in Rishikesh, where we boarded a vehicle bound for the base camp at Lohajung. The 10-hour drive was the usual pahadi visual treat – winding Uttarakhand roads skirting rivers, quaint hill towns punctuated by a few concrete eyesores, and endless stretches of lush forests lining the craggy overhangs. By evening, we reached our destination at the “end of the road” – at least according to Google Maps. An untimely rain shower made our homestay owner remark, “Let it pour all night. That means crystal-clear skies tomorrow and fresh snow up ahead”. Over steaming cups of chai, our fellow travellers shared their anticipation. Turns out, most of us were amateurs.
The next morning revealed Lohajung’s splendour in full glory. Perched at an altitude of 7,700 feet, the village floats above a cloud-covered valley, ringed by verdant mountains, with taller icy peaks peeking from behind. And that’s precisely where we were headed!
The alternate route begins
We took an unconventional reverse route via the village of Wan, making the trail more beginner-friendly by avoiding steep climbs and allowing for better acclimatisation. Our helpers set off ahead, loading supplies and tents onto mules, while we stopped at the sacred Latu Devta Temple. This mystical mountain shrine is dedicated to the serpent deity, and regards silence as a mark of reverence. These legends added an air of intrigue to the trail, which meandered through sleepy villages and fragrant pine forests. Pit stops for selfies were plentiful as a descent led us to the Neel Ganga River, where we crossed a rickety bridge before beginning our first ascent.
Trekking uphill is demanding, but the secret lies in finding a rhythm – a steady pace, frequent hydration, ample rest, and sheer determination. We eagerly anticipated reaching the snow line, and as the soaring oak trees thinned, our reward unfolded in an instant: the breathtaking Gehroli Patal campsite, blanketed in pristine white. Temperatures nosedived after sundown, but with a crackling bonfire, warm blankets, and hot food, even the simplest comforts felt like pure bliss.
Walking among the Gods
Rising early the next dawn, we felt fresh. A short hike upwards led us to a massive trishul, revealing that the Bedni Bugyal was near. From here onward, the trail became an easy, undulating walk through one of the most scenic high-altitude meadows, or ‘bugyal’ in Garwhali. According to local lore, this is the route the Gods took to Kailash.
The Bedni Kund, frozen during our visit, usually mirrors the mighty Nanda Ghunti and Trishul peaks in warmer months. The scenery here transforms depending on the season – rolling green pastures dotted with grazing sheep or an endless sheet of white snow, surreal and silent.
For drone enthusiasts, this is paradise. The aerial view – just you, a tiny speck amidst a boundless expanse – makes you feel both insignificant and infinite. A mere 50-step ascent from the pathway revealed a 360-degree panorama of snow-clad summits cascading into eternity.
By the end of the day, we trodded towards the adjacent Ali Bugyal, where our campsite sat on an open slope devoid of vegetation. As the sun dipped, the place transformed into a celestial wonderland. The midnight frost prodded us to stay inside, but stepping out was worth it – a sky glittering with a million stars, the Milky Way arched over glowing, snow-clad Himalayan peaks.
Descending into the forest
Radiant sunshine dawned over Ali Bugyal, gently awakening us the next day. At an elevation of 11,700 feet, the sprawling, empty fields stood absolutely still, interrupted only by the wind and distant cowbells. A celebratory sense took over – we had done it! The descent began, leaving behind the open meadows. The trail plunged into oak and rhododendron forests, where sunlight dappled through the canopy, creating an ever-shifting mosaic of light and shadow. We bouldered over rivers, strolled by waterfalls, and even tiptoed past monkey colonies!
By afternoon, we made it to Didina, a quiet hamlet. Our homestay host welcomed us with warm food, a warm bath, and the warmth of hospitality. Over piping hot plates of curry, chawal, and sabzi, we reminisced about the landscapes we had traversed.
The final stretch
The last leg of our trail got us to Kuling, close to where we started. Returning to our base point, the route that once felt challenging now seemed familiar and even comforting. The Ali Bedni Bugyal trek proved to be the perfect mix of challenge and serenity. It pushed us just enough while rewarding us with Himalayan grandeur. Even the most hesitant among us was already planning the next trek!
Tips for first-time trekkers:
• Invest in good trekking shoes and down jackets for near-zero temperatures. Your body will thank you.
• Pack light – really light. You’ll be amazed at how little you actually need.
• Fitness prep matters. Brisk walk a few kilometres daily before your trip.
• Washroom worries? There are none after base camp! Portable enclosures set up by the guides ensure privacy, but showers are off the table for a few days.
• Carry extra batteries and a power bank. There is no electricity in the great outdoors.
• Bring a drone for magical aerial shots.
• Slow and steady wins the trek. There’s no rush – hydrate, rest, and enjoy the journey.
• Take the reverse route, like we did. The drama unfolds better!
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