In the hip hub that is Bengaluru’s Indiranagar, Kopitiam Lah’s Nasi Lemak has found a formidable fanbase within just a couple of months. “People are drawn to it for its unique combination of textures and flavours — the fragrant coconut rice paired with spicy sambal, crispy anchovies, crunchy peanuts, and a perfectly cooked egg. It’s a dish that is simple yet satisfying, bringing a sense of comfort while introducing diners to an authentic slice of Malaysia,” describes owner Joonie Tan, who grew up in Perak, Malaysia.
Meanwhile, at the cosy Makan Lah in the vibrant Mumbai neighbourhood of Khar, another expat, Synthia, has diners tucking into popular Singaporean delicacies. She smiles, “Hainanese Chicken Rice, our number one seller, is particularly loved by many Indians who visit Singapore, as it’s a local specialty that they often miss once they're back home. Approximately 70 per cent of our clientele is from Singapore or has lived there, making them nostalgic for the flavours of their hometown.”
Both places tap into the rich tradition of coffee shops called kopitiams, which serve up kopi (the deliciously dark and caramelly Hainanese coffee with a dash of sweet, condensed milk), as well as a range of tasty dishes. Bringing the kopitiam culture, which literally means ‘coffee shop’, to places such as Bengaluru and Mumbai, is rather brave, as both places have their own strong traditional coffee culture. But it’s evident that they are drawing in diners by the droves thanks to their culinary offerings too.
Singapore and Malaysia are both countries whose culinary traditions are diverse, impacted by the different ethnic groups that have peopled it over centuries. Chinese, Malays and Indians all have a distinct presence here. It’s not surprising then, with roots so intertwined, Indians have been embracing the flavours of both nations wholeheartedly. At Kopitiam Lah, Joonie sought to bring a selection of dishes that truly represent the heart and soul of Malaysian cuisine, balancing the diverse flavours influenced by Malay, Chinese, and Indian culinary traditions. “The dishes I chose for the menu are those that evoke nostalgia and warmth, such as Nasi Lemak, Char Kway Teow, and Laksa. These are rich in complex flavours, spiced thoughtfully yet familiar, and resonate with the Indian palate, which appreciates bold and aromatic dishes. I believed these dishes would connect well with Indian diners due to their shared love for spices, layered flavours, and hearty comfort food. For instance, dishes like Laksa, with its creamy coconut broth and vibrant herbs, echo certain regional Indian flavours while offering something distinctly different,” she explains.
Synthia’s story wasn’t too different, with popular street foods like Hainanese chicken rice, Laksa, and Nasi Lemak being iconic dishes that have resonated well with the preferences of Mumbai diners. She says, “Apart from the beloved Hainanese chicken rice, I included Char Kway Teow, which is a stir-fried noodle dish that captures the essence of Singaporean cuisine. Understanding that tastes vary, I wanted to offer a mix of spicy, sweet, and savoury options. Some diners may prefer milder flavours, while others enjoy more robust and spicy dishes. By providing a variety of vegetarian options and desserts, I aimed to cater to different palates, ensuring there’s something for everyone to enjoy. Overall, I believe this selection showcases the rich tapestry of Singaporean flavours which has been embraced by Mumbai’s diverse food-loving community.”
Pan-Asian goes precise
These aren’t merely flashes in the pan. There’s a growing understanding of the cuisines of the various countries in eastern and southeastern Asia among India’s food-forward community. While it was rare to have restaurants such as Burma Burma which provided a deep focus on the food of just one country, and ‘pan-Asian’ eateries serving a mix of Chinese, Thai, and Japanese (and sometimes Vietnamese and Indonesian), popped up anywhere there was a kitchen of sorts and a few tables and chairs, we are slowly finding more nuance to our eastern neighbours’ nosh!
Not all pan-Asian restaurants are to be pooh-poohed, of course. As far back as 1997, visionary restaurateurs Praful and Cheeru Chandawarkar opened Malaka Spice in Pune’s posh Koregaon Park area. They introduced the city to the food of Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Singapore, Vietnam, Japan, and Cambodia through recipes and ingredients they brought back from their frequent travels, creating what was perhaps India’s first pan-Asian restaurant. Today, with such a slew of others offering similar menus, they are delving even deeper to give diners the real deal as well as staying ahead of the curve by speaking the language of sustainability and farm-to-table.
Their recent limited-edition Malaysian Nasi Kandar menu found many takers, giving guests the feel of eating at a stall in small-town Malaysia. Ilvika Chandawarkar, the new generation of Malaka Spice management, is excited about menus like these (many dishes of which get absorbed into the main menu). She says about the Malaysian-focused menu, “Typically, when you go to a Nasi Kandar, you get the Nasi bokhari rice with a dash of Penang curry (Thai that is influenced by Malay and Indian cuisine). Then you point out to all the different curries, crunchies, and condiments that you want the vendor to pile up onto your plate. That’s the experience we brought to Pune and will probably do again, going by the excellent response.” The vast array of dishes served in a multitude of small bowls included an intense rendang, tangy tamarind sauce, spicy sambal, creamy pineapple curry, and a mind-blowingly good black pepper paste. Ilvika introduced these personally and encouraged Punekars to sample unique sides such as fried chicken and anchovies (beans for the vegetarians), sambal (with either eggplant, egg or squid), curry puffs stuffed with yam or chicken, tamarind corn ribs and prawns, and a Nonya (grandma’s) pineapple salad. Pulling off this specialised feast alongside the regular menu cannot have been easy but there was clearly enough motivation to do it, as it catapults even an iconic restaurant into a different league, one that those on the food circuit recognise as unique.
As MingYang Chai, Founder and Mixologist at Bumipura, a stylish cocktail bar in the dining district of Lower Parel in Mumbai, puts it, “While pan-Asian restaurants in Indian metros often focus on a broad range of Asian cuisines, we (Bumipura) home in specifically on the flavours of Malaysia and Singapore. Our menu is crafted with a deep focus on these cultures, drawing from traditional dishes and transforming them into both unique cocktails and elevated bar bites.” So, while diners at Kopitiam Lah are devouring Malaysia’s beloved national dish, Nasi Lemak, with great gusto, at Bumipura, they are slurping up its cocktail version with a vengeance! “Called Dear Seri, this drink captures the essence of Nasi Lemak by transforming its key elements into a cocktail experience. Guests savour the creamy smoothness of coconut milk and pandan-infused jasmine rice, the refreshing hint of cucumber, and a touch of crunch from a peanut-rimmed glass. Adding a unique twist, Dear Seri combines two contrasting temperatures: an ice-cold base topped with a warm rice foam, creating a unique experience that many guests are in awe of,” describes Chef MingYang.
Bumipura has been envisioned to cater to the culturally curious; individuals who are passionate about exploring diverse flavours, and who appreciate the fusion of tradition with innovation. “What sets us apart is our passion for innovation and storytelling. At Bumipura, guests are invited to explore unique food flavours — like Nasi Lemak, Chilli Crab, and Thunder Tea Rice — reimagined in cocktails. Each drink offers a fresh, exciting way to discover the culinary cultures of Malaysia and Singapore through an interactive and fun drinking experience. Our team brings these stories to life, explaining each drink’s origins and flavour inspirations. For some cocktails, the finishing touches are crafted right in front of the guests, adding a personal and immersive element to every sip.”
The genesis
“For a long time, I dreamed of bringing Singapore street food to India, coming from a family with a long history in the food business,” says Synthia, who, since she moved to Mumbai more than a decade ago, has understood the local palate quite well. “When I decided to open this cafe, Makan Lah, I wanted a name that reflected the essence of Singaporean culture. In Malay, ‘Makan’ means ‘to eat’, and in Singapore, it’s common for groups of people to say, ‘Let’s go Makan’, which makes it a fitting choice for the café’s name,” she narrates the making of Makan Lah.
Pre-opening, Kopitiam Lah had the added advantage of having Darren Teoh, chef owner of the two Michelin starred Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur, consult on the menu. “His involvement with Kopitiam Lah was a special chapter in our journey,” says Joonie, whose husband, the pastry wiz Vinesh Johny, (owner of Lavonne Café and academy, also a partner in Kopitiam Lah), has known Darren for some time through a mutual chef friend. “Over the years, they developed a shared admiration for each other’s commitment to pushing their area of expertise’s boundaries. When it came time to conceptualise the menu for Kopitiam Lah, having Darren onboard felt like a natural choice to infuse authenticity and innovation into our offerings,” she asserts, adding, “His deep understanding of indigenous Malaysian ingredients and modern interpretations brought an elevated touch to our dishes. His insight ensured that while we stayed true to traditional flavors. From perfecting the sambal’s complexity to suggesting unique pairings that highlight local spices, Darren’s contribution enriched the menu, making it both true to its roots and refreshingly forward-thinking.”
Chef MingYang did his homework diligently too. “Before opening Bumipura, I spent time exploring Mumbai’s vibrant bar and restaurant scene, connecting with local friends along the way. These experiences revealed a city of open-minded people, eager to embrace new flavours and culinary experiences. Inspired by this, we’ve crafted our signature menu with a mindful balance — offering bold, adventurous flavours for the curious, alongside familiar tastes to satisfy traditional palates. It’s been rewarding to see guests not only enjoying these flavours but actively engaging with them, expanding their palates and, in a way, joining us on this culinary journey.
Not every taste profile of a cuisine necessarily translates transnationally though. When asked, the restaurateurs admit to having treaded carefully at the start. “Before opening Kopitiam Lah, there were certainly moments of apprehension. Before opening Kopitiam Lah, there were certainly moments of apprehension. I wondered how diners would respond to the robust, sometimes unfamiliar flavours — like the complexity of rendang or belacan, a fermented shrimp paste that is a cornerstone of many Malaysian dishes but has a strong, distinctive flavour. I was initially unsure how it would be received, as it’s quite different from the typical flavour profiles familiar to most Indian palates. However, we decided to introduce belacan carefully in dishes where it complements and enhances the overall taste without being too overwhelming. The response has been amazing — our customers have truly embraced it and come to appreciate the unique depth and umami it adds. It’s been encouraging to see diners not just enjoying these flavours but actively seeking out dishes that feature belacan!” Joonie exults.
For Synthia, it was pork that posed doubts. “Before we opened, I did have some apprehensions about how our flavours would be received, particularly regarding certain pork dishes. I wasn’t sure if Indian diners, especially in Mumbai, would be open to trying so many pork options. However, I was pleasantly surprised to find that many of our customers in Bandra have truly embraced dishes like Braised Pork Rice and Sweet and Sour Pork Rice. Even our Bak Kut Teh, which consists of pork soup served with rice, has seen a significant demand. We are continually testing out new dishes, and it seems that even those who have never been to Singapore are enjoying authentic offerings like Char Kway Teow and Hokkien Mee. Initially, I thought it would take some time for people to adapt to these flavours, but the response has been overwhelmingly positive,” she reports.
The result
Plates licked clean, repeated and regular visits from satisfied guests, and an evolved clientele clamouring for even more diverse dishes emphasise just how much today’s diner is ready for new and exciting experiences and to explore different cuisines more holistically than a token tick on a multi-cuisine menu.