Designer Diksha Khanna’s collection titled ‘Julley’, or ‘Hello’ in Ladakhi is inspired by the barren landscape of Ladakh. The trans-seasonal and fluid nature of the ensembles include costumes that came with minute detailing and contemporary touch - denim merged with zari khadi, eco-leaf printing - a form of natural dyeing on textiles and abstract appliqué giving unconventional treatment. Shorts, jumpsuits, hoodies, boleros, a pair of saris offered a wide choice in the collection.
Designer Pratima Pandey’s label ‘Pramaa’ unveiled ‘Paro’ inspired by Sarat Chandra Chattopadhyay’s protagonist from his classic novel Devdas. The ensembles reflected old age glamour with delicate floral embroidery. The colour palette was a profusion of shades of brown and black paired with white for balance. The collection comprised scarves over shirts, tunics, skirts all luxuriously layered in light fabrics, some with lace detailing.
Design brand Antar Agni by Ujjawel Dubey’s new menswear edit unveiled a line-up of jackets, kurtas, fluid salwar suits and trousers along with shackets. For women’s wear, Ujjawal presented skirts and dresses with some interesting overlays. In terms of colour palette, the new collection shifted from Antar Agni’s regular neutrals and blacks to bold colours like burnt orange, teal blue, and ivory with maximal graphic prints too. Actress Shruti Hassan was the showstopper.
Designer Gaurav Khanijo’s ‘Cirque de Soul’ collection came with candy-striped trousers, tees and intricate embroideries. It was an artsy streetwear collection through handlooms, artisanal textiles into handcrafted pieces while the cuts and styles in the ensembles would easily appeal to the fashion-forward followers globally.
Payal Pratap’s ‘JAVA’ was a cleverly done maximal collection with a focus on prints. The designs captured detailed elements - combination of floral Chintz prints with Batik craft and using extensive flower, leaf, tree, vines and bird motifs - basically, cheery prints reigned supreme. The colour story moved from indigo tones to deep shades of burgundy, brown and gold.
Globally renowned designer - Vaishali S’s collection, ‘Fil Rouge’ focussed on fabric manipulation and intricate cord work - for what the designer is known best. Her choice of colours was subtle and started with stark neutral black, beige and then moved to bright tones in red. Layering was a focal point of this collection too with unique drape silhouettes worn above the ensembles, like a maxi dress.
The FDCI Khadi presentation proved that the age-old fabric was not constricted to only a certain colour or silhouette. Actress Kangna Ranaut was the showstopper donning a pristine white saree. The Khadi presentation brought together five labels- Mossi, Abhishek Gupta Benares, Anavila, Anju Modi, Charu Parashar and Rina Dhaka.
Designer Mossi Traoré’s collection played with architectural silhouettes and a contemporary breezy approach to the pieces in a bright colour palette - presenting Khadi with a new twist.
Designer Rina Dhaka’s collection was all about breezy silhouettes in eco-friendly fabrics in earthy tones.
Designer Nitin Bal Chauhan’s collection titled Countdown was about ‘wearable art in the true sense and brought a check on issues plaguing the world like urbanisation, deforestation and air pollution. Wearable elements like skyscraper headgear, smog cloud bag or garbage bag shoes - brought a surprise element to the presentation. The designer explored construction and pattern making techniques along with innovative 3D hand embroidery to create installation outfits with recycled waste material.
Creative director Rajesh Pratap Singh’s new collection titled ‘New Order’ for Satya Paul highlights abstract prints and patterns all over the ensembles - there were balaclavas, bodysuits and deconstructed sarees. The collection was all in to present themselves appealing to the new Gen-Z crowd only.